2001 Pauletts Andreas Shiraz
93 points, $37-$39

Vintage conditions in 2001 suited reds in Clare, and many concentrated, balanced wines have now emerged. With all the hype surrounding 2002 rieslings, other wines have been pushed into the background – which means that many good 2001 wines are readily available. This flagship red from Pauletts has a very concentrated, fragrant nose, with lots of plum fruit. The palate is well-proportioned; liquorice, meat and smoky charred wood nicely layered around the fruit flavours. Tannins are ripe, dense, sturdy and balanced; it will age well for a decade.

2004 O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling
92+ points, $19-$21

Sourced from the oldest part of the Smith vineyard in the cool Polish River Valley district, the 2004 from David O’Leary and Nick Walker is another pace-setter for the region. Depleted, rocky, slate-laden soil has produced a pure, clean expression of riesling, its fragrance and restrained lime fruit riding over slate and quartzy mineral notes. It has a super-fine, concentrated palate with powerful, precise fruit. The flavours are long, even and balanced, finishing crisp and elegant. Drink now or cellar it until at least 2007.
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2002 Pikes Shiraz
91 points, $26-$28

With substantial estate holdings and many vintages under its belt, Pikes is committed to making some of Clare’s best and most consistent wines. Terrific intensity in the long, cool 2002 vintage. Satsuma plum, liquorice and pepper are defining aromas and present in abundance with spice that builds in the glass. The palate delivers ripe, soft tannins, peppery shiraz flavour and good balance from start to finish. It has a generous texture without rounding out and holds a sophisticated savoury thread.
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2001 Sevenhill Cabernet Sauvignon
92 points, $25-$27

A terrifc cabernet from the valley’s original winery. Aromas are complex across the cabernet spectrum; plenty of coffee bean and black olive, some herb and cassis with tobacco leaf aromas. There’s ripe, dark berry fruit with hints of violet florals, while the oak is savoury and sits nicely below the fruit. It starts gently on the palate with pure cassis and a hint of briar, building to medium-weight with soft, fine, ripe tannins neatly wrapped in the fruit. It finishes with a lick of oak toast rolling nicely through the cassis fruit flavour. A polished act.
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1998 Taylors St Andrews Riesling
94 points, $33-$35

Taylors has large vineyard holdings in the region; it bought the adjoining St Andrews vineyard in 1995, gently nursing it back to top form. The resulting St Andrews range has showed consistently well and marks a turning point in Taylors’ recent history. First released in 2003, the 1998 is tracking very well. It boasts a lovely aged-riesling nose, with toasty bottle-aged characters, lime peel and preserved lemon. The palate has a gentle presence, lifted lime brulee and lime marmalade, with spice and flint too. It is softening, as great aged rieslings from this area do, and still has some years ahead.
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2002 Kirrihill Shiraz Mourvedre Grenache
90 points, $19-$21

Dave Mavor is a quiet achiever, turning out a range of good wines from many regions under the Kirrihill banner. This is a fine blend of Rhone varieties; ripe and complex, with aromas of rich plum, spicy red fruits, dark chocolate and earthy notes. The palate is soft and round with more plum flavours, while pepper drifts in and out and alcohol adds warmth without going over the top. It’s dense and textural, with acid keeping it fresh. A delicious drink with balance and harmony.
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