THE FRANTIC PANIC of Christmas is over; the long, lazy days of summer lie ahead, providing many chances to taste the work of kitchens beyond the normal radius from home – and, having arrived, capitalise on the opportunity. Stay all day. Linger over cheese or dessert. And – assuming there’s a designated driver – savour an array of liquid refreshments.

There’s a concentration of talented chefs hovering within easy driving distance from Adelaide. Most of them seem to source their produce from “old so-and-so down the road” with some pampered chooks, or “some bloke with a tinnie” for tommy ruffs. Faced with all this pure goodness on their doorsteps there’s no choice but to cobble everything together into inspiring dishes.

Here is a selection of country restaurants. They epitomise all that is vibrant and excellent in current Australian cooking, in a much clearer way than their polyglot cousins in the city. None is more than an hour and a bit’s driving time away. All of these restaurants will be extra popular during the next few weeks so it is essential to book ahead. You won’t go wrong.

Note that many restaurants change menus at this time of the year, so don’t burst into tears if some of the specific dishes mentioned aren’t available; I’m sure you will discover an even better choice.
Happy holiday grazing.

Star of Greece
Esplanade
Port Willunga
8557 7420
Lunch: Seven days during January
Dinner: Seven days during January
Hard to believe that there was controversy over the renovations to this tissied-up shed. Every decent beachfront in Australia should be so lucky to have a restaurant like this, pictured above. Led the charge to the frightfully fashionable Willunga (“Tuscany” if you live there) enclave. Have these people actually been to Tuscany? The food continues to be amazing. Rabbit Kiev in prosciutto on polenta? Pan-fried squid with wasabi mayonnaise? Or maybe Tommy Ruffs freshly hooked in the waters outside. Always check the specials board. Fabulous aspect.

Barr-Vinum
8-10 Washington Street
Angaston
8564 3688
Lunch: Seven days during January
Dinner: Wednesday – Saturday
First there was Bob McLean, renowned luncher and wine marketeer; extremely savvy underneath the bluster, and exceedingly generous beneath the savvy. He was destined to have his own restaurant as an extension to his personality. Then there was Sandor Palmai, mega-talented Barossan chef with a dream palate. Wait a year then tip in ex-Universal Wine Bar sommelier and all-around buzz-pants Duncan Miller. Mix ‘em together and you’ve got a bit more than bibbity bobbity boo. If Sandor cooks confit of pork belly and serves it with crayfish, and Duncan wants you to drink Barolo with it, don’t answer back, just do it. The wine list has concentrated on the Barossa Valley – until now. Duncan gleefully announced to me that the list was “going global”. The local winemakers will have a formidable selection to pit their own best efforts against.

Bridgewater Mill
Mt Barker Road
Bridgewater
8339 9200
Lunch: Thursday – Monday
Dinner: By arrangement
Exquisite food in a beautiful setting. Chef Le Tu Thai is incapable of creating any sort of flavour clash. His own heritage of Asian textures and tastes are blended seamlessly into a classically European technique. The faultless food is backed up by copybook service and a range of wines built on a base of the best from Petaluma. Summer serenity by the mill wheel is about 20 minutes away from the CBD. Crayfish tail with crustacean mousseline and shellfish essence with truffle cream and salted duck egg, anyone? Pigeon carpaccio with beetroot confit, horseradish and walnuts? Leave space for dessert, you wouldn’t want to miss out on something like caramelised apple pudding with butterscotch, custard and cinnamon ice cream, would you?

D’Arry’s Verandah
Osborn Road
McLaren Vale
8323 8710
Lunch: Seven days
Dinner: Friday
The verandah in question overlooks d’Arenberg’s vineyards and a peaceful panorama of rural McLaren Vale. The food is taken care of by a talented pair of chefs, Peter Reschke and Nigel Rich. They rely heavily on local ingredients which they sex up with exotica from the outside world; for instance, a dish of wok fried local duck egg with lup chong (a sort of Chinese sweet pork sausage that can be used and spelt in dozens of creative ways) with fried onion and garlic and grilled asparagus in a light oyster sauce. I am particularly fond of The Footbolt Shiraz – each new vintage seems better than the last – but you can order much flasher wines than that from the list; the awesome The Dead Arm Shiraz, for instance, or well cared-for aged treats from d’Arenberg’s cellar.

Flying Fish Café
1 The Foreshore
Horseshoe Bay
Port Elliot
8554 3504
Lunch: Seven days
Dinner: Seven days
Fabulous spot nestled in the corner of Horseshoe Bay with the sea lapping at the doorstep. The restaurant morphs into the outdoor café with a wide selection of dishes ranging from cheap to regular for something like a perfectly cooked beef fillet with all the trimmings. Try the steamed black mussels in a tomato, saffron and garlic broth if it’s on. Gaze out at the picture postcard bay and shed those suburban blues. Good selection of local wines to forage for in the racks.

Lake Coolangatta Café
1 Norman Road
Aldinga Beach
8557 4000
Breakfast: Saturday and Sunday
Lunch: Seven days during January
Dinner: Seven days during January
A cute kiosk that services tables on an umbrella-shaded lawn a step away from one of the best beaches in the world. Serenity stretches to cliffs kilometres away. Almost tempts a chap to roll up the trousers and go for a paddle. I really like chef Shane Ortis’s take on simple fish and chips, but order the astonishing bouillabaisse if you’re after kicks and thrills. The salt and pepper squid with lemongrass chilli and ginger is great – a reminder of how good this dish can be when the squid doesn’t come frozen in block from overseas somewhere. Ask why the place is named as it is.

Salopian Inn
Corner McMurtrie and Willunga Roads
McLaren Vale
8323 8769
Lunch: Thursday to Tuesday
Dinner: Friday and Saturday
The venerable Salopian Inn was and is a ground-breaking trend-setter. Under chef David Swain it continues to show off the best regional produce. Once you are safely inside the thick stone walls of what was once an old inn, nothing much can go wrong. Have the shiraz pie if it is on, or anything done in tempura batter. Toddle downstairs and rummage around in the cellar for a bottle or two that takes your fancy. Take a winery tour without leaving the bar.

Vintners
Nuriootpa Road
Angaston
8564 2488
Lunch: Seven days during January
Dinner: Monday to Saturday
Sitting in the middle of vines and lavender, Vintners is a newly spruced up old stager upholding all the good principles behind proper regional dining. Long-time chef Peter Clarke’s repertoire and imagination never disappoints. Try char-grilled kangaroo fillet with spiced eggplant salad and taro chips or a seafood sausage with red nam jin and sweet potato. Maybe a pizza, or a two-course “fast lunch” is available for $25. A favourite with local winemakers, especially from Yalumba down the road. It is their staff canteen I suppose. Spacious, open dining area.