You don't know what you're missing

August, 2010

Fortified wines are barrels of history that should not be ignored by any serious wine appreciator, writes Valmai Hankel.

I sometimes ask friends and acquaintances if they drink fortified wines. "Never", is a common response. "Why not?" I ask. "I don’t know – I never think of it. I wouldn’t know when to drink them. And aren’t they very high in alcohol?" is the usual reply. Well, some of what we used to call sherry but must now call apera, such as the dry Seppeltsfield Flora Fino (about $22) at 16.1 percent alcohol by volume – some years down to 15 percent – are not much higher in alcohol than a McLaren Vale or Barossa Shiraz. And as for when to drink them, there is nothing better on a winter evening than a bowl of pea and ham or leek and potato soup, with a Fino (the driest style) or an Amontillado (dry but richer) in the glass and a dash in the soup. Or try the Fino with tapas. Remember to serve them chilled. Certainly, some of the top quality sweet fortifieds are so intense and rich in flavour and texture that only a small glass at the end of a meal, or on its own, is sufficient to appreciate these wines’ unique complexity and character.

When it comes to attention in the media, fortified wines have a pretty low profile. Only very occasionally will there be the odd review, usually in winter and about sweet rather than dry fortifieds. According to the Bible of such things, The Australian and New Zealand Wine Industry Directory, in 2009 fortified wines occupied only 3.3 percent of all beverage sales in Australia. But once consumers try them, in the right circumstances, most are hooked for life.

As an introduction to styles of sherry there are several ranges of Spanish sherry available. Among them is the Barbadillo line, priced around $25 depending on the style, and good value. The Fino, for instance, is about $22 and only 15 percent a/v. The Lustau range sensibly includes the dry styles in 375 ml – these should be drunk as soon as possible after purchase and after opening, to appreciate their freshness and vivacity. At the other end of the scale are the sherries from Sanchez Romate, of which the rare style known as Palo Cortado (about $58), is worth seeking. At 20 percent a/v, deep gold, dry and almondish, a style between Amontillado and Oloroso, it’s described as "a law unto itself".

As far as I know, only two Australian wines have ever been allotted the perfect score of 100 by the gods of wine criticism – James Halliday, and Harvey Steiman in the magazine, Wine Spectator. Guess what? Both are fortifieds. Halliday’s nominee is Seppeltsfield 100 Year Old Para Liqueur, made from Barossa Mataro, Shiraz and Grenache. The current vintage, 2010, will set you back $299 for 100ml, or $975 for 375ml at cellar door. Steiman’s accolade goes to Campbells Merchant Prince Rare Rutherglen Muscat (about $124 for 375ml). Halliday only gave this 96 points, but allotted its sibling, Isabella Rare Rutherglen Tokay (about $125), made from Muscadelle grapes, 97 points. If further proof were needed of the superiority of the best of these wines over all other wine styles, at last year’s Royal Adelaide Wine Show the only wines to be given over 19 out of a possible 20 were – you guessed it – two fortifieds, Morris Old Premium Liqueur Tokay and Baileys Winemaker Selection Muscat.

The Barossa has long been a successful maker of fortifieds, providing the fruit for most of the best fortified reds, which we used to call port. Grenache and Shiraz are the most popular varieties. The best fortified Muscats and Muscadelles usually come from Rutherglen. Of course, there are exceptions. Wayne Dutschke’s Old Codger Fine Old Tawny (about $18) is a most unusual blend of Verdelho, Grenache, Shiraz, Palomino, Frontignac (Muscat) and Muscadelle, from Langhorne Creek and the Barossa.

In the 60s and 70s when most Barossa wineries offered at the very least a port on their list, Wilsford was a name to be reckoned with. I recently came across a flagon, sealed with a screwcap, of Wilsford Rare Old Frontignac bought in the early 70s. I haven’t been game to open it. Wilsford, now owned by founder Percival Burge’s grandson, Rick (not to be confused with Rick’s cousin Grant who also makes top-quality fortifieds), is the fortified arm of Burge Family Winemakers. Rick has continued to make wines under the Wilsford label, but rarely do you hear about them. Top of the stable is Founders Reserve Three Generations Tawny Port (about $35 for 375ml), nutty and complex.

The doyen of South Australian makers of fortifieds is undoubtedly Seppeltsfield. Since 1878, Benno Seppelt and subsequent owners have each year laid down puncheons (475-litre barrels) of port in what’s been described as "the longest lineage of single vintage wines in the world". You can visit Seppeltsfield and for $79 go on a tour of the winery which culminates in a tasting of some of the top-of-the-range fortifieds, including the current century-old Para Liqueur. You may also be able to taste a sip of the wine from your birth year, straight from the barrel. I’ve been fortunate to taste several of these ancient treasures. It’s an experience like no other, and especially satisfying if, like me, you are besotted with the best fortifieds and are not averse to drinking some unique wine history. Bookings are essential. Telephone (08) 8568 6217.