Welgemoed to open new restaurant

There will be another exciting addition to Adelaide’s flourishing food and wine scene, as Bistro Dom’s Duncan Welgemoed is leaving his award-winning Waymouth Street restaurant to open a bar and restaurant in November.

The Bistro Dom chef will collaborate with fellow Happy Motel member, designer James Brown (MASH), as well as Paul Glen and James Hillier (Golden Boy, Rocket Bar) on the new restaurant and bar, which will open in November. The yet-to-be named restaurant will be located in the east of the city, have a capacity for 80 diners and will be influenced by cuisine from South Africa and its surrounding areas, where Welgemoed is from.

“It’s basically going back to my heritage,” Welgemoed, who curated the successful Lola’s Pergola degustation series First Fruit as part of the Adelaide Festival earlier this year, told The Adelaide Review.

“We’re focussing on southern Africa for the first launch until we can start getting into it. What’s really interesting is that South Australia and southern Africa’s flora and fauna are quite similar. It’s easy for us to do and there are so many recipes. It’s what I cook at home. It’s so diverse and no-one’s doing it, really. If you think of African food you’re thinking something really home-cooked but it’s so much more than that.”

Welgemoed says he wants to cook African-inspired food that’s “accessible, contemporary and fun”. The new place will cater for people who want to drop past for a snack or stay longer for a complete dining experience.

More information will be released in early September. Doors will open in spring.

Picture: Duncan Welgemoed and James Brown

Photographer: John Laurie

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The Adelaide Review

Dark Mofos

Bistro Dom’s Duncan Welgemoed and two Sydney chefs, Jared Ingersoll and Alex Herbert, were in Hobart recently for the Dark Mofo Winter Feast – another brainchild of David Walsh. The three chefs travelled to Tassie to cook for the masses. Here are their stories.

Duncan Welgemoed (Bistro Dom, The Happy Motel)

Take one-part fire, two parts debauchery, a fistful of winter produce and a sprinkling of dark arts, spin it in on high inside a Ferris wheel of death and cook gently in front of a flaming bookshelf. That's pretty much how we spent our Dark Mofo weekend. The event showcased what's good about the winter solstice: feasting, the promise of nudity, dancing, whiskey (I know it has nothing to do with the solstice) and a community getting close around a fire.

Still a tourist in this country, I noticed that Tasmanians are friendlier versions of mainland Aussies. Even the usual Saturday night wino helped me find my way to a whiskey bar and made sure he vomited far enough away from me as to avoid me smelling the sick. Good man.

The biggest eye opener, however, was the fact that Tasmania’s art, food, and booze scene is cementing a new identity within Australia, kind of like South Australia but colder. David Walsh is an obvious driving force and the passion he has is incredibly infectious. How does one man pretty much gain the hearts and minds of an entire state? The answer, some might say, is a mixture of money, honesty, lateral thinking and a penchant for doing what he wants. I applaud anyone who gives the middle finger to the establishment, has a glass of wine and programs the shit out of a festival to make it one of the most talked about events of the year. In South Australia, we should be more concerned about the overall experience instead of the bureaucracy attached.

Cooking with three of my friends, in an environment solely built on creating a feast for the senses, was something we can all take away. It's not about corporate sponsorship, it's not about the bottom line, it's about the community having a cracking time.

@GastroPunkOz

Jared Ingersoll (Food for People)

When I was 11, I followed my mum to work and I stepped into my first commercial kitchen, an army mess in Trentham, New Zealand. It was huge. Everything in that space was loud, hot and noisy with massive knives and fire everywhere. It blew me away. From that day, all I wanted to do was be in a kitchen.

The next most important moment in my life was cooking for the first time. I found a recipe for a dish called beggar’s chicken, a Chinese dish that required a chicken to be cooked in a salt crust with soy and spices. My family thought I was mental, I didn’t care. The recipe looked complicated but it gave me a sense of purpose that comforted me. Hours later, the final result was a hard clay that, when cracked, allowed the most delicious aroma to fill the house; everyone was instantly happy and hungry. The satisfied looks on their faces when they ate the soft, sweet and salty chicken filled my heart with joy. I was 12, awkward, lonely and living in a council estate with not much to my name but now I had a purpose – to satisfy others with my cooking. 

That feeling has never left me.

My career has been full and rewarding, it has delivered me much pleasure and bucket loads of heartache and stress. In the beginning it was about the kitchen and learning skills and techniques, but as I developed I realised that I was but a small part of the equation and that led me to my fascination and love of the ingredients, the farmers, the seasons and the environment. 

When asked to be a part of Dark Mofo, I dropped everything to do it. I was overjoyed when the final line-up was announced – Duncan, Alex and myself. Three unique chefs who see food differently but share a love of nature, food and satisfying the customer. Three brave cooks, who are not intimidated by flame and smoke, rather thrive in the face of something as deliciously enormous as cooking at Dark Mofo. Three citizens who embrace hedonistic pursuits with grounded humility! Thirty years after that beggar’s chicken I felt I had a purpose – to satisfy others with my cooking. 

@JaredIngersoll

Alex Herbert (ex-Bird Cow Fish)

I have known Jared Ingersoll for many years but before this year had only collaborated on a cooking gig twice before, both back in 2009. Jared was one of the chefs I cajoled into participating in the SIFF BBQ to cook alongside Fergus Henderson. The other was a collaborative dinner for Carlo Petrini from Slow Food at my then restaurant, Bird Cow Fish, in Surry Hills.

I first came across Duncan on Twitter. He caught my attention with his bravado. Since then, we have increasingly crossed paths on a personal and professional level. Our food styles are different but we share a love of great produce and having a good time while we play with it. Earlier this year we came together for the first time. Jared and I cooked a dinner together at the Adelaide Festival’s Lola’s Pergola. Needless to say, we all got along quite famously. 

When the invitation to cook at Dark Mofo popped up in my inbox, it was a no brainer. We were asked to each cook a dish of our choice over three nights for the Winter Feast, as part of the Winter Solstice celebrations. We were just three of many chefs, cooks and producers who embraced the bounty of Tasmania’s produce and reveled in feeding the many people who wanted to come together to play, listen talk, sing and dance. 

There are festivals and then there are festivals. Winter Feast at Dark Mofo is one of those that truly lived up to and beyond its expectation on every level. It was a celebration of all the senses: acoustic, aromatic, visual and emotionally uplifting. It was the essence of how I came to love sharing and cooking food with other people.

@birdcowfish

darkmofo.net.au

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The Adelaide Review

Review: Larry & Ladd

The newest kid on the block is the only child of coffee-god parents Bar 9 and Coffee Branch.

Larry & Ladd opened quietly earlier this week, but already the queues are 10 people deep and curious onlookers are crowding the glass walls in Regent Arcade.

The café is cosily dark, with very on-trend black-painted ceiling, polished concrete floor and exposed brick wall behind the counter. Setting Larry & Lad apart from the rest is the British racing green speed stripe across the back feature wall, which also hosts a display of art and culture magazines for purchase. Flowers – from fellow Regent Arcaders Boo & Who? – decorate the store, adding a sweet lushness to the industrial edge.

larry and lad adelaide regent arcade new cafe 2014

Jeremy Downey, part-owner and enthusiastic barista extraordinaire, is already greeting customers by name on the third day of business, ensuring – no doubt – regulars for life. Between the coffee machine and the two large, granite-top tables inside, Downey encourages peekers to come inside and not be shy.

It works.

Despite there being around 20 customers in the 28-seat café (including another long table in the arcade), queues aren’t long and service is quick. The snacks – pastries and interesting sandwiches – are on display on the front counter so you can see precisely what it is you’re getting into. Vegetarians are well looked after, with mushroom, tomato or cheese choices across the range.

Two of the sandwich options recommended by Larry & Ladd staff are the soused herring, and the potato tortilla and chorizo.

larry and lad adelaide regent arcade new cafe 2014 chorizo potato tortilla soused herring

A potato and sausage sandwich might not sound particularly trustworthy, but it is ridiculously tasty – cold, flavourful potato melt around the warm and spicy chorizo, both mellowed with honey and labne.

The herring – with boiled egg and orange aioli – is a little wet, but the Nordic flavours work neatly together.

The snack options, including a range of toasties, are well-priced, ranging from $4.50 to $6.50. Coffee – a unique blend from Five Senses roasters – is equally modestly priced, competing well with other city cafes.

Welcoming, delicious and fast – what more could you hope for from the Lads?

larry and lad adelaide regent arcade new cafe 2014

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The Adelaide Review

Orana named South Australia’s best restaurant

Jock Zonfrillo’s Orana continues to impress, as the Rundle Street establishment was named South Australia’s Best Restaurant at the Restaurant and Catering SA Awards for Excellence at the Entertainment Centre last night. 

The win follows Orana’s three nominations in the national Gourmet Traveller Awards, which includes New Restaurant of the Year, Sommelier of the Year and Wine List of the Year for the magazine’s annual awards that will be announced later this month. Orana, with its native Australian-inspired fine cuisine, also took home the Best Fine Dining gong at last night’s Restaurant and Catering Awards. Other major winners include the National Wine Centre, which won Caterer of the Year while the Wine Centre’s Head Chef Philip Pope was named Best Chef.  

Golden Boy was named Best New Restaurant while the Botanic Garden Restaurant took home two gongs: Best Contemporary Australian (Metropolitan) and Best Wedding Caterer. The Lifetime Achiever Award went to Appellation’s Jim Carreker while Magill Estate’s Martin O’Connor won Best Maitre d’ and Press* Food and Wine’s David Currie was named Sommelier of the Year. The winners are below.

rcsa.asn.au

Restaurant and Catering SA Awards for Excellence 2014 Winners

Best Restaurant: Orana

Lifetime Achiever: Jim Carreker (Appellation at the Louise)

Best Chef: Philip Pope (National Wine Centre)

Best Fine Dining: Orana 

Best New Restaurant: Golden Boy

Popular Choice: Peel Street 

Best Restaurant in a Winery: Hentley Farm 

Best Maitre d’: Martin O’Connor (Magill Estate)

Caterer of the Year: National Wine Centre

Best Wedding Caterer: Botanic Garden Restaurant

Best Vietnamese Restaurant: My Tho City

Best Venue Caterer: Epicure at the State Library

Best Thai: Toptai

Best Sushi: Sushi Train (Central Market)

Best Steak (Informal): Carmel’s Cafe Bar and Grill

Best Steak (Formal): Mayura Station’s The Tasting Room 

Best Small Caterer: Mediterranean

Best Small Bar: The Tasting Room

Best Site Contract Caterer: Medirest at Eldercare Allambi 

Best Seafood: Cardone’s Seafood and Grill

Best Restaurant in a Pub/Club: The HWY

Best Restaurant in a Hotel: The Treasury

Best Mexican: Viva Zapata

Best Japanese: Shiki 

Best Italian Formal: Chianti

Best Italian Informal: Ambrosini’s

Best Industrial Institutional Caterer: Medirest at Eldercare Allambi

 Best Greek Restaurant: Zucca Greek Mezze

Best Function Centre: National Wine Centre

Best Family Restaurant: Cucina Nuova

Best Event Caterer: Adelaide Oval 

Best European: Georges on Waymouth

Best Contemporary Australian (Regional): Appellation at the Louise

Best Contemporary Australian (Metropolitan): Botanic Garden Restaurant

Best Coffee Shop: Cibo Espresso (O’Connell St) 

Best Chinese Restaurant: House of Chow

Best Cafe: Assaggio

Best Breakfast: Chianti

Best Bakery/Patisserie: Muratti Cakes & Gateaux

Best Asian: Hanuman

Best Wine List: Barn Steakhouse

Sommelier of the Year: David Currie (Press* Food and Wine)

Media Winnes: David Washington (InDaily)

Safety Award: Adelaide Casino

Best service Provider: Abeo Design 

Apprentice Cook of the Year: Brionie Pearson (Lenzerheide)

Best Employee: Poonam Desai (British India)

Best Employer: The Strand Cafe

Best Product Supplier: Treasury Wine Estate

Hall of Fame (Best Steak): Barn Steakhouse

Hall of Fame (Site Contract Caterer): Eurest at Hewlett Packard

Hall of Fame (Restaurant in a Hotel): Playford Adelaide

Hall of Fame (Coffee Shop/Tea House): Argo on The Parade

Jock Zonfillo picutre: Matt Turner

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The Adelaide Review

The Secret Blend

Taylor Blend may seem small when you walk in, but the passion and enthusiasm of the staff is huge. I even noticed it radiating though to the smiling customers walking in at the same time as me. The décor consisted of woodgrain and browns with eye-catching artwork that really stands out when you enter. Brewing methods on offer other than espresso include the pour-over, but the chilli-infused cold drip is definitely of note.

Taylor Blend offers plenty of single origins and blends depending on what’s in season or what rare and exotic beans they can get their hands on. They have the freedom to use different roasters from around Australia, so, as you can imagine, choosing what to try for my espresso was hard. I went with a single origin from Costa Rica called La Pena Tarrazu and it was divine. The first sip had a sharp acidity that amazed me when it turned into roasted nuts and savoury biscuits. It also had a natural sweetness in the aftertaste, resulting in a memorable experience.

The latte was made from a secret blend, which is always on offer, called ‘The Taylor House Blend’, locally roasted by Simply Coffee. It was made with Tweedvale milk and served with a rosetta as the latte art. The first sip of the latte had a strong almond taste, followed by a creamy caramel aftertaste.

The next time you have a day off, I recommend taking a drive up the hill to Taylor Blend, not just for the amazing coffee, but for a beautiful scenic walk through Ferguson Park next door. You may even come across a koala to share your coffee with.

Taylor Blend
1/34 Hallett Road, Stonyfell

taylorblend.com.au

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The Adelaide Review

Food For Thought: Foie Gras

I want my chickens roaming free in paddocks of green pasture and eating nothing but grass and the occasional worm – I don’t purchase or eat eggs that come from anything less, but my position on the production of foie gras is far less passionate and, to be honest, I have somewhat double standards on the issue.

Geese have been ‘force-fed’ for more than 5000 years and, in fact, it was the Egyptians that are said to have noticed how migrating geese would naturally plump up for the long trip ahead of them. It wasn’t long until the Romans noticed how geese could overeat and that their lack of a gag reflex allowed them to consume copious amounts of figs and, in turn, enlarge their liver and provide a prized delicacy of the era.

The fall of Rome would almost see the practice of foie gras disappear and it is said that if it wasn’t for the Jews taking the technique around Europe it may have been lost in history forever. The very rich livers provided Jews with kosher fat to cook with, while olive oil and dairy fat were scarce. Adopted and loved by France, the technique was, and will possibly always be, synonymous with French gastronomy.

With the production and consumption of foie gras now steep in French history, the rise of pâté, terrines and parfaits was seen all throughout the 17th century.

This ingenious method of preserving meat by the addition of animal or dairy fat is making somewhat of a comeback and artisan producers are popping up all over the country. Chicken liver parfait that has been perfectly protected with a seal of clarified butter, served with crunchy sourdough and a cornichon for some wanted acidity, is something not to be refused.

I admit the technique in which foie gras is produced is not the most ethical, and for that reason banned in Australia and many parts of the world, but it is an important part of food history that deserves to be recognised for its mark on history and, let’s face it, its delicious contribution to gastronomy and its means for preserving food through less opulent times.

Walnut and Muscatel Bread Recipe
Makes 3 loaves

Ingredients

• 500g plain flour (organic if possible)
• 7g dried yeast
• 300ml warm water
• 1 tsp salt
• 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tbs sugar
• 1.5 tbs spice mix
• 150g dried muscatels
• 100g walnuts
• 300ml warm water
• Spice mix
• 50g cinnamon
• 50g allspice
• 25g cloves
• 25g ground ginger
• 12g nutmeg
• 3 tbs cardamom

Method

1. Activate the yeast in the warm water for five minutes.
2. Combine the our, salt, oil and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer.
3. Mix brie y with the dough hook on a low speed to combine the dry ingredients.
4. Slowly add the yeast and water.
5. Increase the speed to medium and leave for 15 minutes or until the dough will stretch and allows you to see through it.
6. Add the walnuts and muscatels. Mix until combined.
7. Place in an oiled bowl, leave to prove for 45 minutes or until doubled in size.
8. Divide the dough into three even pieces and form into a baguette shape.
9. Place on a floured baking tray and leave to prove for a further 30 minutes.
10. Bake in the oven for 30 to 45 minutes. Bread is ready when if tapped on the bottom, the echoing sound is hollow.
11. Leave to cool.
12. Slice thinly and toast in the oven for a crisp finish.


Pork and Pistachio Terrine Recipe

Ingredients

• 1.8kg pork
• 200g back fat
• 10g fennel seeds
• 1 white onion
• 1 tsp thyme leaves
• 1 egg
• 1/2 cup whole pistachio
• Salt and white pepper
• Sliced pancetta or thinly sliced bacon

Method

1. Ask your butcher to mince the pork and back fat on a 8mm blade.
2. In a generous glug of olive oil, sweat the onions, thyme and fennel seeds until translucent and soft. Leave to cool.
3. Combine the pork mince, back fat, cooled onions and the egg, mix until it becomes sticky and forms a ball (slapping the mixture on the side of the bowl will help it combine).
4. Add a large pinch of salt and pepper along with the pistachio nuts and mix until evenly dispersed throughout. (Frying a small amount of the mixture to check the seasoning at this stage will help you get a perfect end result).
5. Line a terrine mould with greaseproof paper.
6. Line the tin with sliced pancetta, length ways and with a slight overlap.
7. Pack the mix in to the mould making sure you pat the tin frequently to remove any air pockets.
8. Cover the top of the terrine with the remaining pancetta slices.
9. Tightly cover the top of the terrine with greaseproof paper and a layer of aluminum foil.
10. Fill a large baking tray with boiling water in an oven preheated to 160 degrees.
11. Place the terrine in the water bath.
12. Bake for an hour and then remove the cover, continue to bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until 72 degrees in the centre.
13. Leave to rest and cool to room temperature before placing two tins of tomatoes on top to lightly press in the refrigerator overnight.
14. Serve at room temperature with slices of crusty bread.

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The Adelaide Review

Review: Golden Boy

It seems every time a high-profile chef departs one restaurant for another, stories of strained relationships and poorly-plated politics are rife. Just months after opening to local applaud, the Golden Boy-loving public was ‘rocked’ at the news that Chef Nu Suandokmai had quit. The headlines were dramatic and the industry unsettled, according to local reports, but who knows what really goes on below deck?

As betrayed as they might have felt, kitchen crews behind these restaurant rifts stand united, keep on cooking and maintain the same standards. Even if the Captain had jumped ship (or was forced to walk the plank), there’s almost always a First Mate to step in and steer the new vessel.

Enter new Captain Miles Davies – formerly of Jolleys Boathouse, as incidental pirate-puns would have it.

Recently based in Sydney developing a dedicated taste for South East Asian food under the eye of revered chef Christine Mansfield at former fine dining restaurant Universal, Davies has returned home to take the mantle as the new (and perhaps improved?) Golden Boy of Adelaide’s Asian-fusion cuisine.

I had eaten at Golden Boy a few times before and it was always a great experience, but let’s not dwell on the past; instead let’s concentrate on the delicious and the charming.

Golden Boy’s interior is delightful. I think back to the days when this was the Botanic Bar’s dark and dated Chesterfield-clad cigar lounge and thank the designers for this resurrection. Clean, bright and comical, with etchings and prints traversing white walls and a white marble bench running right down the centre of the compact but well-utilised space. The bright and white extends through to the kitchen with a row of golden light fittings suspended from black metal poles – a striking feature against the rest of the clean interior.

The food is delicious. Betel leaves are stuffed full of seafood flavours that change regularly. I’m a fan of the salmon but the crab is even better, as the silky, creamy paste filling and chilli hit excites and leaves you wanting more – drizzle it with supplied lime wedges if you love a bit of tang, it’s worth it for balance and takes the chilli edge off, too. In the salmon vs kingfish sashimi battle, the salmon proves almighty – a dainty little fish dish with perfect lime-y acidity supported by galangal, soy and palm sugar to balance the mix. Keeping with the seafood tradition, a beady-eyed barramundi is battered, herbed, fried and placed decadently atop a pile of leaves, spices and herbs.

Out of the ocean and onto the land, a flavour-infused Jungle Curry dish features stir-fried sirloin, kangkung, holy basil and banana chilli that almost pushes you over the spicy edge. The TBBC is a simple combo of edamame beans, chilli and bean curd and is a play on the locally-adopted Gouger Street favourite with a touch of Thai. Spice-rubbed pork spare ribs are slow roasted for hours and served with a roast garlic dipping sauce. These are lip-smackingly delicious and a good break from the chilli heat of the rest of the menu. The Massaman curry is the only slight let-down. Although tasty, the Wagyu beef was not as tender as expected and while I do enjoy the flavour of star anise,  mistaking a pod for a curry-soaked morsel of meat left a fairly strong taste between my teeth. Fortunately the duck curry made up for it. Roasted legs swam in a lovely fragrant yellow curry, sweetened with pineapple and Thai basil. It’s one of those dishes you can never go past on a menu, and in this case you certainly shouldn’t.

For those of you with ambition (or those on the hunt for that perfectly Instagram-able bird’s eye shot) make sure you order the plate of chilli accompaniments.

The staff is charming. Whether it was the time seated at the chef’s bench overlooking the kitchen or the main dining space, the service makes the experience. Attentive, professional and just a little bit cheeky, these guys and girls know their business, their food and their customers.

Golden Boy hasn’t changed too much since opening its doors, but where it has, it’s for the better. It is testament to the idea that there’s more to navigating a ship than who is at the helm. Boatswains and deck hands all have their place to ensure smooth sailing, especially through turbulent waters.

goldenboyrestaurant.com

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The Adelaide Review

Adelaide venues up for Gourmet Traveller Awards

Leading the way is Jock Zonfrillo’s new venture Orana, with nominations in the New Restaurant Of The Year, Wine List Of The Year and Sommelier Of The Year categories.

The fresh-faced team of Scott Huggins and Emma McCaskill, who took over as head chefs at Penfolds Magill Estate last year, has been nominated for Best New Talent, while South Australia’s small bar legislation is partly to thank for our final nomination in the Bar Of The Year category, going to Clever Little Tailor.

You can find the full list of nominees below. The winners will be announced on Wednesday August 20 at the launch of the 2015 Australian Restaurant Guide.

The five South Australian nominations are an outstanding achievement in the largely east coast-dominated awards and mark a turning point for Adelaide’s hospitality industry. In previous years South Australian venues have fared poorly at the Australian Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards, scoring two nominations in 2012 and only one in 2013.

Finalists: 2014 Australian Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards

Best New Talent
Mat Lindsay, Ester, Sydney, NSW
Victor Liong, Lee Ho Fook, Melbourne, Vic
Alex Drobysz, Bar Nacional, Melbourne, Vic
Eun Hee An & Ben Sears, Moon Park, Sydney, NSW
Mike Eggert & Jemma Whiteman, Pinbone, Sydney, NSW
Scott Huggins & Emma Jade Mccaskill, Penfolds Magill Estate, Adelaide, SA

New Restaurant Of The Year
Brae, Birregurra, Vic
Ester, Sydney, NSW 
Orana, Adelaide, SA 

Wine List Of The Year
Moon Park, Sydney, NSW
Print Hall, Perth, WA
Orana, Adelaide, SA

Sommelier Of The Year
Nick Hildebrandt, Bentley, Sydney, NSW
Marc Esteve Mateu, The Press Club, Melbourne, Vic
Josh Picken, Orana, Adelaide, SA

Maître d’ Of The Year
Simon Freeman, Brae, Birregurra, Vic
Christian McCabe, The Town Mouse, Melbourne, Vic 
Romeo Lee, Sixpenny, Sydney, NSW

Regional Restaurant Of The Year
Brae, Birregurra, Vic
Provenance, Beechworth, Vic
Nu Nu, Palm Cove, Qld

Bar Of The Year
Bar Americano, Melbourne, Vic
Lefty’s Old Time Music Hall, Brisbane, Qld 
Clever Little Tailor, Adelaide, SA

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The Adelaide Review

Measuring Creativity with Ferran Adrià

It was in the late 1980s that Ferran Adrià, on a visit to Nice, heard Jacques Maximin define creativity as “creativity means not copying”. Since then, nothing’s been the same.

Adrià’s elBulli kitchen closed for winter for the first time to focus on development of new techniques and dishes following that visit to the Maximin’s restaurant at the Negresco Hotel. It was a long time ago – but it’s an important turning point. Perhaps this is where Adrià’s trajectory to become the best chef in the world began?

Adrià had always been a remarkable chef. Having joined elBulli in Spain in 1984, he travelled overseas to meet other chefs and gain inspiration. In 1996, Joel Robuchon described him as the best chef in the world – perhaps the first international endorsement of his talents, but certainly not the last. Heston Blumenthal, Juan Mari Arzak, and Paul Bocuse are just a few of the chefs who reiterate admiration for Adrià’s genius.

He was travelling the world promoting elBulli 2005-2011 when The Adelaide Review met him. elBulli 2005-2011 is a seven-volume compendium with striking imagery, luxurious paper stock and meticulously gathered insights into the 1846 dishes created over seven years at elBulli.

Adrià has taken creativity further than just not copying. He is convinced creativity can be measured. “Yes, perfectly so,” he states.

“But in general, we don’t want to do it because it seems as if, ‘Okay, if I’m creative then I can do anything! Don’t pressure me, because pressure is not good for me if I am creative.’ That is not true. You can measure creativity at the end — whether you have produced or not. There are so very many ways to create in the world and so many disciplines in the world that everyone has their own process. But it’s the quantity of results, that’s where you are going to measure it, so you can measure it perfectly.”


Ferran Adria portrait.

The measurement of creativity, even with a reliable formula, isn’t an easy process. It’s hard to imagine what would motivate someone to do it.

“To not copy myself. Most people don’t want to look at their own past because they would realise that they copy themselves,” he says.

“Another thing that’s important is, if you understand what you do and analyse it, I think it’s useful for you to create, at least it’s useful for me to create. When you want to last for many years — I want to be very long-lasting in creativity — it is a daily battle. And all of this self-supervision, if you will, I think it’s very important to do it. And this is just subjective, some people may say, ‘Oh no, that’s not true’, but then I’d like to see how long they last. And in general you could say that people who have lasted [for] a long time have been very ordered.”

The compendium, elBulli 2005–2011, certainly reflects this order. Each dish is beautifully photographed and recorded. Ironically perhaps, it will lead to copying.

“Well, if we publish something like this, it is indeed to share it,” he says.

“Some people take 10 ideas, others take five. Another takes one. For someone it’s a life changing experience, for someone else it’s not. Every chef is different but it is without a doubt a very influential work.”

It is also a very beautiful work, by any aesthetic measure, and was mostly completed in-house, including the photography.

“We do this every year, four or five times a year. And the styling, we also did that. Because after 1846 dishes and thousands and thousands of snapshots we have learnt a thing or two.”

elBulli 2005–2011 is available through Phaidon Australia

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The Adelaide Review

Food For Thought: Afternoon Tea

The very hungry Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, is rumoured to have started the late afternoon indulgence of cake and tea in the early 1840s. The lull of energy and the hunger pains that creep up on us all became too much for Anna and she began to take a cup of tea, bread and butter, and a small cake in her room. With hunger kept at bay, the only thing lacking was company, so she began to share her afternoon ritual with others.

By the 1880s the art of taking afternoon tea had turned into a grand affair for all concerned. Etiquette on how to dress, set the table and even the invention of fine bone china came from the growing demands of the upper-class and their afternoon tea sessions.

Once guests were at the table, and suitably dressed for the occasion, the most iconic afternoon tea dish would grace the table: the very humble cucumber sandwich. It was the humbleness of this sandwich that proved just how much of an extravagant event afternoon tea was. While a nation was starving, and every meal was considered to be of importance, the upperclass were enjoying frivolous sandwiches that had little to no nutritional benefit. The cucumber sandwich would make legendary status and was even referenced in the first act of The Importance of Being Earnest by Oscar Wilde.

Once sandwiches had been eaten, only then would a selection of small, but very elegant, cakes be brought to the table. Victorian classics – fruit cake, sponge cake and brandy snap baskets – kept people eating well into the evening. But foreign influences would eventually make their way to the table and are now considered mandatory inclusions at afternoon tea.

Madeleines, traditionally baked in the shape of scallop shells, are the perfect addition to the afternoon tea line-up. Originally from the northeast of France, these cakes have the perfect crumb for soaking up hot cups of tea.

Although many of us reference high tea, it was in fact afternoon tea that was the more grand and lavish affair. High tea was traditionally a more robust event and enjoyed in a much more relaxed way. High tea was also served much later in the day but more importantly was the meal directly after finishing a long day’s work. It is suggested that this is where the term ‘tea time’ originated.

Whether it is afternoon tea, high tea or even a snack and a cup of tea, most of us indulge in this ritual daily, thanks to Anna and her hunger pains!

Madeleines Recipe

This cake batter is traditionally baked in shell-moulded tins but if you don’t have one, they bake perfectly in muffin tins.

Ingredients

• 4 eggs
• 150g caster sugar
• 3 teaspoons vanilla extract
• Zest of two oranges
• 150g unsalted butter
• Extra butter for greasing the tins
• 200g plain flur
• Pinch of salt
• 1 teaspoon bicarbonate soda

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 210 degrees. 2. Whisk the eggs and sugar for four to five minutes or until pale and double in volume.
3. Add the orange zest and vanilla. Whisk for a further minute to combine.
4. Melt the butter until slightly nut brown; set aside to cool.
5. Using a pastry brush, lightly grease the tins with room temperature butter (if not using a non-stick pan, lightly dust the buttered tin with flour. Tap upside down to remove any excess flour and leave to set in the fridge for 15 minutes).
6. Sift the flour, bicarb soda and pinch of salt onto the egg mixture.
7. Lightly fold the mixture.
8. Add the melted butter when nearly all of the flour has been incorporated, ensuring to fold the mixture gently to ensure a light batter.
9. Spoon the mixture into the moulds, filling them around three quarters of the way to the top.
10. Bake for 10 minutes or until just set in the centre and golden on the underside.
11. Serve warm from the oven.

@annabelleats

 

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The Adelaide Review

Java Lifestyle: Great wall of Coffee

As soon as you walk into Java Lifestyle you are greeted by friendly staff, a five kilogram coffee roaster and a wall of coffee beans sourced from around the world.

I was drawn in like a magnet and didn’t hesitate to ask about the 1950s vintage Gaggia espresso machine that’s set up on display like the true piece of art that it is. The great wall of coffee beans consisted of 20 bean hoppers with well displayed names and shiny fittings that reminded me of lolly dispensers from my childhood.

The barista was very busy but still able to talk to me about the beans on offer. For my espresso she suggested I try a single origin bean called Ethiopian Sidamo. Full of flavour, it had a big impact upon my first sip, the cherry notes initially dominated but the cocoa came through towards the end.

For the latte, I tried their house blend called Super Crema; made from beans from Colombia, Africa, India and Sumatra. The first sip had hints of roasted nuts but then the dark chocolate notes came through. It was presented with the latte art of a rosetta and made with milk from Tweedvale.

Java Lifestyle is a place that has a very bright clean feel to it with that hint of traditional coffee house mixed in. There’s a great display of some antique equipment and, if you’re lucky, you might even catch them roasting the beans that you’ll be enjoying in your next cup.

Java Lifestyle
2/84 Gorge Rd, Newton

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The Adelaide Review

Maggie’s Mission

Renowned cook and food personality Maggie Beer has established The Maggie Beer Foundation, which aims to improve the quality of food being served to elderly Australians.

Launched in April 2014 at Tasting Australia (part of which included a forum on the elderly and a cooking competition for chefs from aged-care centres), Beer’s mission is to marry her innate knowledge of what good food can do for everyone’s (particularly the elderly’s) state of mind to the latest cutting-edge research on nutrition’s impact on brain health and general well-being.

Beer describes the initiative as a “truly nourishing mix, so much greater than the sum of its parts”.

A good food life for all, and all that encompasses, is what drives Beer, and that includes the aged. Beer’s interest in the elderly was sparked when, as Senior Australian of the Year in 2010, she spoke at a conference of aged-care leaders.

Drawing inspiration from her “mentor”, the indefatigable Stephanie Alexander, Beer wants to do for elderly South Australian aged care residents what Stephanie’s Kitchen Garden Foundation does in enhancing food education in primary schools.

“Everyone, regardless of their age or circumstance, deserves access to good food,” Beer says.

She is aware of the enormity and complexity of the task ahead to create change in a positive, inclusive way. “That’s why I created my Foundation comprised of a skilled Board with expertise and a message designed to appeal to like-minded people around Australia.”

Beer has teamed up with Country Health SA in leading a campaign to improve the food served in regional aged-care facilities in SA. The project will be trialed initially at Mount Pleasant Hospital and Abbeyfield Residential Care in Williamstown as part of the State Government’s Ageing Action Plan.

The regional project will involve Beer developing and testing a new approach to food in aged care, with a focus on quality, freshness and presentation. According to well-known chef Simon Bryant, some of the major hurdles facing aged-care homes were budgets, training and liability surrounding risks such as falls, food poisoning and choking.

Currently more than 15,000 people are in residential care homes, while about 70,000 people use home and community care services in South Australia. As South Australia’s population ages, these numbers are set to increase rapidly. In 2011, the state had nearly 400,000 Baby Boomers (born 1946-64), which represented nearly 25 percent of the population.

The project will focus on beautifully presented, fresh, high quality food. Beer hopes the campaign will bring a much-needed change in regional aged-care homes’ approach to food. 

“This is a mission dear to my heart. So I am delighted to be working with Country Health SA in a project that has the potential to change the way we ‘do food’ in aged care in those facilities where beautiful, fresh food has not been a priority,”

One initial aim is to identify and celebrate aged care facilities that are already doing a good job. Another important step is to find ways to encourage facilities that are not already doing so to purchase fresh, seasonal, local (Australian) ingredients in the preparation of the food for residents.

However, how well elderly Australians eat is a matter for conjecture. Many aged-care providers may take exception to the suggestion that their residents do not receive an excellent food and dining experience.

In order to gain accreditation, and consequent funding, aged-care providers must already provide many things in their menus and food service (including choices at each meal to allow for personal preferences and cultural diversity).

The kitchens in aged-care facilities are tightly controlled environments of activity where the staff work hard in order to produce many meals and between-meals offerings each day. In that regard they are not very different to the pressured environment of a commercial kitchen in a well-patronised restaurant.

So what is the standard of food currently being served in aged-care homes in South Australia and nationally? What are the criteria on which these assessments are based? And, just how does one go about devising, funding and implementing an effective scheme (presumably a long-term national objective)?

A logical starting point is to benchmark the current state-of-play and then move forward from there. Beer’s initiative is ambitious, it promises much and it is engendering public interest. Now the Foundation has been established, and public donations solicited, we can hope to see the project implemented.

maggiebeerfoundation.org.au

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The Adelaide Review

Eastern Promises: Mother Vine and The Tasting Room

The reemergence of the city’s east end as a quality food and wine district continues with the addition of Mother Vine and The Tasting Room.

Rundle Street’s east end used to be a haven for food and wine lovers. It lost its appeal after many institutions closed and streets such as Waymouth, Leigh and Peel emerged as food and wine hotspots. This was exacerbated by the closure of the Universal Wine Bar last year, and it seemed all was lost for Rundle Street and its adjoining laneways.

But there were signs of life, as Ebenezer Place evolved into the food destination it had promised for many years with numerous cafes and lunch spots such as Hey Jupiter, Sad Cafe and Nano. And late last year, Rundle Street snagged the quality gastronomic destination it was waiting for with the opening of Jock Zonfrillo’s Street ADL and Orana.

One premium wine destination has been a constant throughout all these changes – East End Cellars. Michael Andrewartha’s much-loved wine retailer, importer and wholesaler, called Adelaide’s best wine shop by wine writer Max Allen, has been an institution on Vardon Avenue (which runs parallel to Rundle St, near Ebenezer Place) for 16 years. It has now moved across the avenue to bigger premises. It’s not just a larger space. The shop includes The Tasting Room, a licensed area where you can enjoy a glass of wine or two with food options including imported and local ham and salami, toasted sandwiches, antipasto and a Ploughman’s Platter.

Andrewartha is also involved in the premium wine bar Mother Vine, located in the old East End Cellars building. Due to open in the middle of July, Andrewartha is responsible for Mother Vine along with Amalfi ’s Frank Hannon-Tan, East End Cellars’ Pablo Theodoros and Master of Wine David LeMire from Shaw + Smith. The small bar license was the genesis for both the Tasting Room and Mother Vine. Andrewartha and Hannon-Tan want the area to be a food and wine hub and for their businesses to complement existing east end food and wine premises such as Street ADL and Orana, The Botanic and the National Wine Centre.

“There’s been a long tradition of wine bars in Rundle Street from the days of Universal and Tapas,” explains Hannon-Tan.

“And that space [Tapas] was a wine bar continuously from 1920s up until Tapas closed, according to Howard Twelftree [the late Adelaide Review food reviewer].”

Hannon-Tan, who owns Frome Street’s Amalfi, said he felt there was a change of direction on Rundle St when hospitality businesses moved out to be replaced by fashion shops.

“I think the pendulum has swung back and corrected itself with the laneways behind Rundle St,” he explains.

“It’s an equilibrium. I don’t want to criticise that period but it swings in roundabouts. I think this is a part of a balancing out of the city as well – there’s a lot happening in the west end and it’s provided an impetus to redevelop here. This is never going to be the late night precinct that it once was, and that’s not a bad thing.”

“We’ve both been in the east end for the same amount of time, about 16 years,” explains Andrewartha.

“It’s funny how we’ve now joined forces to open this new bar. I think both venues will work off each other fairly well. The Tasting Room is a lot smaller, it’s licensed for 75, but across the road [Mother Vine] we’re licensed for 120. This [The Tasting Room] is a not a late night venue, you won’t be hanging off the rafters at 2am, it closes at 10 o’clock at the latest. And across the road it will go to one o’clock on Friday and Saturday nights only but normally midnight, so they are not late night venues as such.”

Mother Vine’s wine list will be 300-strong and driven by Lemire.

“He’s looking at a wine list that showcases the best of independent winemakers in Australia and around the world, with a focus on France, Italy and Spain as well as some German wines.”

Andrewartha says the Tasting Room and Mother Vine will be separate businesses with different identities, as he’ll be the face of the Tasting Room and East End Cellars while Hannon-Tan, Theodoros and LeMire will be the faces of Mother Vine.

“Of course there will be some crosspollination of clients who will drink wine there and want to buy it here,” he explains.

“It’s about creating a wine hub,” Hannon-Tan says.

“When people think, ‘I want to go for a glass of wine’, it’s not necessarily a specific place but its about coming to Vardon Avenue, it’s about coming to the east end for a selection of places.”

eastendcellars.com.au
facebook.com/mothervinewinebar

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The Adelaide Review

Hot 100 SA Wines 2014

With many months of planning already under our belt, The Adelaide Review is excited to launch the 2014/15 season of the Hot 100 SA Wines with some exciting changes, which includes fresh judges and wine classes, as well as a new Chief Judge – Banjo Harris Plane. Harris Plane has been part of the Hot 100 team for the last two years as a judge and this year the Attica Manager and Sommelier steps up to be the Chief Judge for 2014/15.

The Hot 100 winners will be announced on Thursday, October 30, at the Queen’s Theatre. We will also launch the Hot 100 SA Wines publication at this event. 

The Adelaide Review will release a limited number of tickets for the public to purchase for the first time in the event’s history for the Queen’s Theatre soiree. The ticket price includes all tastings, canapés, entertainment and a unique opportunity to meet the Top 10 winemakers of 2014.

Tickets are now onsale; click here to purchase.

The Jam Factory will announce its Drink. Dine. Design emerging artist award at the launch. The Adelaide Review is a proud partner of this exciting award for the second year running. 

Finally, we would like to thank our 2014 sponsors. This wine show, event and publication would not be possible without their generous support.

 

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The Adelaide Review

Review: Longview

While music is always an important ingredient, it would be nothing without the encouragement of food and wine and I propose that if Julie Andrews had spent her glory days twirling about on the slopes of the Adelaide Hills, the songs may have turned out a little differently. In place of curtain-clad children picking fruit, there’d be vignerons and seasonal pickers gathering the best vintage bunches, and Sister Mary such-andsuch would be replaced with worshippers of the wine-variety, out of the convent and into the cellar, as is (the wine) god’s plan.

At the peak of this food and wine musical would be the Brothers Saturno – owners and guys-in-charge of the Longview Vineyard estate and all of its operations. Season after season they are the ones leading Longview’s charge and deliver a sensational performance in the art of food and wine.

One-hit-wonder winemakers of the ‘80s have a lot to answer for but thankfully the plight of under-appreciated Chardonnay is getting stronger after years spent in the buttery shadows. Longview’s Blue Cow is a dazzling example of a refreshed version, with only a light hint of oak and tastes of stone fruit and citrus that will suit even the most reserved of palates (while still pleasing judging panels around the country, considering the number of medals this drop has been awarded). Another favourite white is Queenie, a delightfully aromatic Pinot Grigio named after the owners’ nonna, Tarquinia (who received the fi rst bottle of this tribute as a surprise on her 90th birthday).

A Sunday matinee is the best (and only) time you’ll get to try the tapas menu at Longview’s restaurant or balcony bar, unless you are lucky enough to be invited for a special event or wedding. Course after course of bite-sized offerings and tasty treats are prepared in a kitchen of extras brought in to create the scene every weekend at this charming rustic restaurant space.

Longview serves a refined Spanish-influenced menu that includes an entrée starter of juicy marinated olives and grissini, spiced pumpkin dip that packs a punch, served with hand-made corn tortillas and a leek, potato and cheese tortilla. All simple ingredients, but seasoned and spiced precisely, and matched perfectly with the Willy Wagtail methode champenoise Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sparkling and hand-picked Iron Knob Riesling – gaining a gravelly mineral undertone from the estate hill where the grapes are grown.

Next come the main course dishes, jumping from the plates with colour and flavour. A smoked peppered chicken served with a chargrilled vegetable mix of capsicum, zucchini and eggplant atop a bed of baby rocket, drizzled in a marvelous house-made mayonnaise is the dish of the day, only slightly ahead of the mini slow-cooked pork and oregano pies (with the flakiest of pastries), served with a green salad and side of hand-cut sweet potato chips. A warm roasted carrot, lentil and labne salad comes next, coated in a well-balanced harissa yogurt that will get your tastebuds whirling. This does feature some fairly underwhelming BBQ lamb kefta, though.

Dessert is a cascading romantic vintage comedy of tiered cake stands, filled with naughty R-rated delights including salted caramel chocolate shards, almond butter cookies and petite chocolate éclairs, along with some divine little domes of vanilla and raspberry jube, sprinkled with lime sugar. It’s enough to make you blush.

The cheese plate that follows includes aged-Cheddar with candied walnuts, guava paste and fresh apple atop poppy seed lavosh. The perfect encore that leaves you suitably sated. McLaren Vale might be the gateway to the southern sea and vines, and the Barossa Valley may be consumed, but the Adelaide Hills are alive with the sound of vino, and Longview is full of your favourite things.

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The Adelaide Review

Adelaide’s Patio Coffee Roasters

There is a coffee drying method widely used around the world where the raw coffee beans are made into thin rows on large cement patios. The coffee is dried by the sun and is shifted every 30 to 40 minutes over six to 14 days. This method was inspiration for the name Patio Coffee Roasters and I believe it is also a symbol of patience, which is what’s needed when brewing, extracting and pouring the perfect coffee.

The boutique was full of toys and tools to make coffee enthusiasts feel like a kid in a candy store. The shelves were full of different beans with various characteristics but it was the Synesso coffee machine on the counter that was ready to make my day. The barista suggested I start with an espresso of Panama Boquete from Maunier Estate. It had a rounded grapefruit acidity that lingered in the mouth and started to sweeten as I sipped on.

I ordered the house blend called Compton St for my latte. Made up of beans from Brazil, Colombia, India, Guatemala and Papua New Guinea, it was presented with a symmetrical rosetta on top as the art and the taste was clean and bright with a hint of malt. The Tweedvale milk was textured beautifully and created an excellent mouthfeel throughout.

Patio Coffee Roasters is like a cellar door for the coffee scene and caters to all areas of the industry. They roast their coffee in-house and do all sorts of training onsite. If you feel that your skills are drying up or you would like to start the day right, then come and hang out on this patio for a relaxing coffee and a chat.

Patio Coffee Roasters
678 South Road,Glandore

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The Adelaide Review

Cheese Matters: Fondue

Depending on your era you may or may not be familiar with fondue. This sharing experience of food was totally hip and groovy in the 70s,when fondue parties were the dinner party of choice. It seems the roots of fondue lie in Switzerland, where it was promoted with slogans such as “fondue is good and creates a good mood”. Over time many countries around the world adopted fondue.

Special little pots were required, with distinctive forks that have long stems, lots of melting style cheese and yummy food bits to put on the end of your fork to dip into the hot cheesey liquid.

The fondue pot is quite a cute little thing that generally sits on a stand and has a little burner underneath in order to keep the fondue warm and in a liquid state. The fondue pot became a very popular wedding gift in the 70s. I recall many people telling me when I was looking for fondue pots for CheeseFest last year, they still had the one they were given for a wedding gift in the shed or on the top shelf in the pantry room. Well, if you have one bring it out! Fondue has once again become a popular gastronomic experience, one we should all try at least once.

The cooler weather now is begging for a fondue session to happen. So here’s how you go about it. Of course if you do not have a fondue pot, visit your local op shop, they are sure to have a couple stashed on their shelves.

Now, the important bit – the cheese. You must choose the correct cheese in order to produce a really good fondue. Select from quality Gruyere, Edam, Emmentaler, sharp Cheddar or even Camembert.

There are many recipes for fondue. Once you start looking it is quite surprising. Even celebrity chefs have a few takes on this groovy offering. The first recorded fondue recipe was in a 1699 book which was published in Zurich under the name Käss mit Wein zu kochen which translates to ‘cooking with cheese and wine’.

It simply asks for one cup of grated or cut cheese to be melted with wine and to dip bread cubes into it. While the foundation is there, a few more ingredients really go a long way in shaping some great flavours for you to enjoy.

Fondue should be runny and stringy, not thick and stodgy, and the key to achieving this is using cornflour and white wine. The cornflour prevents the proteins in the cheese coagulating and the acidity in the wine keeps the cheese stringy. Here’s my favourite recipe, which I discovered when looking for fondue recipes for the Funky Fondue Lounge at CheeseFest last year.

Cheese Fondue Recipe

Ingredients

• 450g gruyère cheese, grated
• 450g comte cheese, grated
• 15g cornflour
• 30ml sherry
• 2 thyme sprigs
• 3 garlic cloves, bashed
• 500ml white wine
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• 5g English mustard powder
• 1 pinch ground nutmeg

Method

1. Start by mixing the grated cheeses with the cornflour in a bowl, then bring the sherry to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the thyme and garlic then remove from the heat and allow it to infuse for a few minutes. Strain and allow to cool. Bring the wine and lemon juice to the boil in a medium saucepan, then add the cheese, a little at a time, stirring continuously until it is glossy, smooth and creamy.

2. Now add the infused sherry, mustard powder and ground nutmeg. Stir those into the cheese and wine and continue to stir until the fondue thickens.

3. Transfer this to your fondue pot and serve with cubes of sourdough bread and crudités. I love cornichons, olives, radishes, asparagus, cherry tomatoes and mushrooms as seasonal  dippings.

4. It is important to make sure the cheese fondue mixture is kept warm enough to maintain a smooth and liquid mixture, but not so hot that it burns. For something a bit different, replace the wine with beer or cider, the flavours are great.

Another type of very popular fondue is the chocolate fondue. Personally I am not a sweet tooth, so I will stick to the cheese version but I am acutely aware I could be in the minority there.

Try melted Toblerone in some good dark chocolate with a titch of your favourite liqueur, something like Grand Marnier. Now the dippings for chocolate fondue can be interesting. Anything from marshmallows, chunks of banana, milk bottle lollies, and the perfectly sensible strawberry all work a treat.

I can hear you now: “Have you seen the old fondue set?” I hope I have encouraged you to dust it off and enjoy the “good mood” that fondue creates.

Kris Lloyd is Woodside Cheese Wrights’ Head Cheesemaker
woodsidecheese.com.au

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The Adelaide Review

Review: Hanuman

The location of this extension of Chef Jimmy Shu’s national restaurant empire seems a little strange.

South Terrace hotels are not the most inspirational of Adelaide’s accommodation, and the Grand Chifley Hotel’s dated exterior and tired entrance lobby doesn’t give a good first impression when entering the restaurant sited just opposite the reception desk. Moving through the refurbished dining space is a little more rousing but even a fresh coat of paint and some Danish-style imported furniture can’t help you shake the feeling that you’re about to dive into the hotel’s weekly buffet special. The idea of ‘views over the hotel pool’ would usually add a touch of grandeur, if only the pool wasn’t surrounded by chunky with plastic furniture overshadowed only by the unpleasant façades of nearby buildings. We can’t always choose our neighbours, I suppose.

We arrive during a very quiet lunch hour, confirming that although the location may help keep the overheads down and be convenient for after-hours parking it is not attracting the daytime crowd of more centrally-based dining haunts. Only one other table is occupied and the food and beverage staff seem a little surprised when we arrive, continuing to set tables rather than show us to one. After a little confusion we are seated and service picks up, with menus and wine landing promptly and some menu suggestions offered by the staff and accepted by us; their knowledge of the dishes gave reassurance that we made a good choice and were in for a gastronomic treat from across the seas.

Six little tapered earthenware lids surround a pool of lime and chilli sauce, each one hiding a succulent seafood surprise. Lifting the lid reveals fresh oysters swimming in a subtly sweet and slightly spicy liquid. Simple and delicious. This is Hanuman’s signature dish, and one that I’d happily eat by the dozen. Lingering tastes of lemongrass and ginger get the taste buds dancing and the heat from the chilli is enough to notice but not to undermine the oyster’s delicate flesh.

The first sign of the Indian influence to the Hanuman menu comes next: a Kashmiri chicken tikka marinated with yogurt, ginger and Kashmiri chilli, balanced thoughtfully with a fragrant rose petal garam masala. I imagine that better can only be tasted alongside views of the Himalayan mountains, and this dish is best eaten dunked in the minted yogurt and wrapped in the most delicious roti bread served alongside. It’s here that you really begin to realise that with food like this as the focus, interior (and exterior) design struggles of this oriental haven can be forgiven (even the preformed sandstone deities that I just noticed lining the purple fluorescent lit walls).

It is a difficult challenge to make a curry look photo-worthy but the duck, roasted then simmered in a coconut and red curry sauce, infused with kaffir lime leaf and Thai basil and topped with a sprig of a chilli bush, makes this one the exception, and dare I say it kind of ‘cute’. Strike a pose, you delicious looking dish. Delicious tasting too. Large chunks of pineapple and lychees sweeten the flavour and while perhaps could be seen as a little common, there is nothing like a good classic that is executed well – especially when served with a lemongrass martini, it was past noon, after all.

Less attractive, but still on the mark with flavour and balance, is a combined seafood dish, wok-tossed and seasoned with hot basil and oyster sauce. Lovely and succulent scallops are the heroes here, with the delightful sauce greedily mopped up with leftover roti – both of these too good to waste.

Hanuman is decidedly the best house on the worst street based on its culinary delights. Fresh, fragrant and exciting dishes meld Asian cuisines in perfect cohesion; it’s just a shame about the view.

Hanuman
226 South Terrace
8359 3500

hanuman.com.au

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The Adelaide Review

Reds put a seal on the Wicks success

Tim Wicks is unlikely to forget how he makes his living – with his home slap bang in the middle of a hundred acres of Wicks Estate vineyards, his view on all sides comprises vines, vines and more vines, relieved by occasional stands of redgums.

There are constant reminders, too, when out and about, as the Wicks label – its stylised wax seal creating a fat drip of scarlet on white – is a highly visible presence in restaurants, pubs and bottle shops.

It’s surprising to learn that Tim and his business partner and brother, Simon, branched out from civil construction and property development to begin their venture into wine only 14 years ago, planting out their newly purchased Woodside property with Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz.

The idea of becoming vignerons was not pure whim – the brothers Wicks grew up amidst their family’s orchards and nursery business in the foothills around Highbury.

The orchards were eventually turned over to the creep of urban sprawl, with part of the proceeds purchasing Wicks Estate.

“I guess we just wanted to stay involved with some form of agriculture,” Wicks says.

In addition to owning their own vines, building a winery was integral to their grand plan: “We wanted to be completely self-dependent and control our own destinies. We didn’t want to have to rely on the majors to buy our grapes and be dictated to by them, so we took the path of making our own label and selling wine under our name.”

It was Sauvignon Blanc that initially led the charge for Wicks Estate.

While happy to put his agricultural knowledge to work in the vineyard, Tim Wicks prudently stopped short of trying to make the wine himself. When the flash new winery was put in on the property in 2004, expert help was only a few hillsides away in the form of family friend Tim Knappstein.

Knappstein is a pioneer and virtuoso maker of Sauvignon Blanc in South Australia, and the elegant whites he made for Wicks quickly picked up prizes as well as a popular following, and they continue to defy the deluge from New Zealand. The winemaking at Wicks, especially among the reds, also enjoys the Barossa-based experience of Leigh Ratzmer, whose previous jobs include a stint at Torbreck.

In the past few years, the reds from Wicks have begun to follow the lead of the whites, with the 2012 vintage a standout. In addition to its The Adelaide Review Hot 100 SA Wines top 10 spot, the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon won gold (and best wine in class) at the Adelaide Hills wine show, as well as the Winewise Small Vignerons varietal trophy. Meanwhile, the Shiraz took gold at Perth and Adelaide. With few of the Wicks range retailing for more than $20, it’s a remarkable record.

Tim Wicks is happy to play up the Estate’s cool climate credentials.

“The market seems to be getting more accepting of light-to-medium bodied styles,” he says.

“We’re not making reds in the big blockbuster style; the wines are food-friendly, they have a lovely, soft tannin structure and drink well early. They’re really approachable wines.”

While both brothers and their families still muck-in during vintage, their growing success has led them to enlist the services of another family wine company, Angoves, to handle distribution.

While they have made some efforts to export their wines, and they do sell into China and the Netherlands, their focus remains the local market. Tim Wicks is well aware that hard work lies ahead to avoid the tough times that have befallen many small-to-medium-sized wineries.

“We’ve managed to buck the trend, and while we don’t want to become the biggest winery in the Hills, we do want to continue our growth path.

“Offering high quality, good value wines is the way to do it.”

wicksestate.com.au

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The Adelaide Review

Combi Coffee

We are finally starting to see the boutique coffee world pour into events and festivals around town through the likes of portable coffee vans. Combi Coffee is one of the creative pop-ups you can’t miss, not only due to it being a vintage 1972 kombi van but becuase it has a coffee machine built into the back. They use the locally roasted coffee from Kommon Grounds and offer different single origins and blends depending on what’s in season and the event they’re attending. 

On this day, I found Combi Coffee at an outdoor event called Unley’s Double Shot Coffee Fiesta. When I saw the mustard color van from across the oval I naturally drifted towards it. Although it was very busy, the barista was still able to have a chat to me about coffee, which tells me they must love what they’re doing. He suggested I try a Guatemala Antigua for my espresso, which he handed straight to me from the machine.

The first sip produced a bright and pleasant acidity with hints of soft spice but the aroma of coca came through towards the end.

The latte was made from a blend called Combi Coffee Blend, which was made up of beans from Brazil, Colombia and India. The crema was a perfect colour and sat around the latte art of a rosetta leaf. The taste of roasted walnuts was predominant at first but the chocolate berry flavours came through with the after taste. It was a pleasant cup of balanced characteristics.

Combi Coffee can be found at a range of different events around Adelaide ranging from small local markets to large music festivals such as WOMADelaide. They live up to the title of being a pop-up boutique by popping up in front of you at an event and serving you coffee at a boutique level of greatness.

Combi Coffee is found at various events around Adelaide

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The Adelaide Review

Food For Thought: Grass Vs Grain

This all started when I endeavoured to find out what makes a great a piece of beef. But I found myself running around South Australian cattle farms on information overload instead. I discovered great beef really depends on what you want – buttery and creamy tender meat or complex flavours with texture. For me, it is the latter but, like most, I wouldn’t say no to an intensely marbled piece of Wagyu. The fl avour all starts with what the animal ate, how the animal lived and how it was slaughtered. Flavour most certainly does not come from the elaborate spice mixes and rubs, which seem to be flooding the supermarket shelves.

My journey started on a 400-acre Fleurieu Peninsula-based farm. The rolling hills were littered with free roaming cattle and lamb. But I wasn’t there to see them; I was really there to see the grass and what it did to the flavour of the beef after careful butchering on their residential processing facility. It didn’t disappoint; it was as if the fields of grass, and even the weeds, had enhanced the ‘meaty’ taste. It wasn’t, however, traditionally tender, it needed some good oldfashioned chewing but this only extracted more of the flavour and made my steak all the more satisfying.

If you like melt-in-the-mouth tender beef, then grain-fed is most likely the one for you. A rich diet of grains, and random additions like almond hulls, make for a more rounded and creamy flavour profile. There is, however, a lack of complexity, one could even say it’s one-dimensional. Traditional techniques of fi nishing cattle solely on grain, seems to have lost some of its traction in the market. The thought of taking cattle off the pastures around them and replacing their diet exclusively with grain is a hard concept to swallow when we are all trying to make more ethical and sustainable decisions. 

After talking to a handful of farmers, it is clear that consumer demands for grass-fed beef is triggering a large amount of discussion and movement in farming practices. Both grass- and grain-fed beef have a place our meat industry but it is very clear that the debate is only just getting started.

twitter.com/annabelleats


Recipe: Bread and Butter Pickle

Ingredients
• 4 large cucumbers – thickly sliced
• 2 brown onions – halved, thinly sliced
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 400ml apple cider vinegar
• 230g caster sugar
• 2 teaspoons celery seeds
• 2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds
• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
• 2 bay leaves

Method
1. Place the sliced cucumbers, onion and salt in a colander, resting over a large bowl. Mix thoroughly and leave for 20 to 30 minutes.
2. Bring the apple cider vinegar, sugar, spices and bay leaves to a boil and reduce to a simmer.
3. Lightly rinse the cucumbers and onions and add them to the simmering apple cider vinegar.
4. Turn the heat off and leave to steep for 10 minutes.
5. Spoon the pickles into sterilized jars (I use them straight from a hot dishwasher), seal and turn upside down for five minutes. Store sealed in a dark cool place for up to a year.

 

Recipe: Sloppy Joe

Ingredients
• 500g coarsely ground
(grass- or grain-fed) beef mince
• 1 red onion – diced
• 2 tins whole tomatoes
• ½ cup tomato sauce
• 3 tablespoons brown sugar
• 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• Salt
• 10 small brioche rolls


Method
1. Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat with a glug of oil. Fry the diced onion until soft and translucent.
2. Add the beef mince and fry until browned and any liquid has evaporated.
3. Place tomatoes, tomato sauce, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon and a large pinch of salt into a blender. Mix until smooth and add to the mince.
4. Bring to the boil and reduce to a simmer until it has a thick and rich consistency.
5. Adjust the seasoning and leave to rest for 10 minutes before serving (it is even better reheated the next day!) Serve alongside brioche rolls with the crunchy bread and butter pickles.

 

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The Adelaide Review

Game Of Rhones: Wine is Coming

A Game of Thrones-themed wine tasting event will discover which wine rules them all.

First held in Melbourne last year, Game of Rhones will spread its wings to Brisbane and Adelaide over the coming month and a bit. The brainchild of Dan Sims (Bottle Shop Concepts), Game of Rhones is a lighthearted take on wine tasting, with winemakers and punters dressing up in costume from the wildly successful HBO fantasy show based on the Song of Ice and Fire series of books by George RR Martin. The event, which includes tasting wine infl uenced from the Rhone region in France, follows Bottle Shop Concepts’ mantra: “We take the wank out of wine.”

Sims explains that it was a friend of his that came up with the title Game of Rhones.

“He’s not a wine person at all, which is great as I have to pitch my ideas to him and I fi gure if I can get him excited, I’m onto something,” Sims says.

“But yes, I am a mad Game of Thrones fan and I was keen to do a Shriraz/Grenache event but needed the right angle to make it fun. ShirazPalooza doesn’t quite have a ring to it.”

Last year, Sims took PinotPalooza to Brisbane, which gave him the confi dence to send Game of Rhones up there. As for Adelaide: “It’s a logical choice seeing some of the best known Shiraz based wines/wineries are at its doorstep.”

Sims said last year’s Game of Rhones event was “hilarious”.

“Having some of the winemakers dress up in costume was brilliant and it immediately made people feel at ease. We had medieval music playing as well as actors (in costume) walking about. We also had a torture room where we held blind tastings (blind folded that is) and we put liquids in their mouths. As I said, hilarious! As for being different, it’s a whole package. We want it to be fun and engaging. And yes, it is possible to go to a wine event and actually enjoy yourself.”

Then there’s the actual game, where guests get to vote for their favourite wine.

“We have some of our ‘staff’ walking around with iPads asking people to vote for their favourite wine on the day, as well as the best dressed producer.”

There will be 45 wineries part of Melbourne’s event and just under 30 for Adelaide. Torbreck’s Run Rig was last year’s winner.

“Thankfully they’re back to defend the title,” Sims says.

“We’ll do the same voting system and have city favourites as well as an overall winner to make it interesting.”

As for improving on last year’s inaugural event, Sims says they are looking at better food options for this year’s series, as well as sourcing local beer and cider.

“We’re working with local caterers/food trucks to work with us in terms of food. In short, yes, we’re keen to have some fun with food and link it as much as possible to Game of Thrones.”

Game of Rhones
Published Arts House
Saturday, May 24 (1pm to 6pm)

bottleshopconcepts.com/gameofrhones

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The Adelaide Review

Game of Phones

Ever since I can remember, humankind began fast forwarding through mobile devices like someone scrolling through a YouTube video to get to the best bits. We have grown accustomed to machines going from totally essential to completely obsolete, mobiles thrown into the abyss alongside puree swiping and 62-degree eggs. All we are doing is pretty much surrounding ourselves with technology that is designed to distract us.

This is bullshit... especially for a restaurateur.

The sole reason I got into cooking was so I could cook and connect. There is no better feeling than having someone enjoy an experience that you have put together, from the food and wine to the company. It’s a performance akin to theatre and no one wants to be distracted by a buzzing phone or flashing lights when you have paid good money to be entertained right?

Wrong – we crave constant stimulation and the smart phone has become an integral part of the dining landscape.

The problem we now face in the restaurant industry is that more people are taking photos of the food, décor and wine, which take away from the overall ambience. On Saturday nights I could light up Waymouth Street on the power generated by iPhones in the dining room and still have enough electricity to take a cat selfie.

You know what the menu and wine match is before you have even walked in, as well as what to expect by from the kitchen, so there is no element of surprise left. I’m generalising. But there’s definitely a higher base-level of expectation.

It’s tricky for a chef. On one hand we know that the dish the front of house has placed in front of the diner is first looked upon through the lens of a smartphone, the description etched into a comment box and posted before anyone has had a chance to taste the dish. On the other hand it’s free advertising, our food broadcasted to a plethora of potential customers, counting the likes and shares, deciding on your next signature dish by the amount of shares the photo has – that’s when the cons become blurred.

Social media has become ‘word of mouth’ and the amount of people that comment online about their experiences is staggering.

Everyone has now become a critic and as soon as something is posted, it’s out there for the world to see. It can be used for good or evil and there is no responsibility or accountability especially when negative reviews are posted anonymously such as:

“MY WINE WAS NOT POURED EXACTLY 60 SECONDS BEFORE OUR MAINS CAME OUT!!!

SCANDELOUS!!” By WInEFiend 87

Or

“WE PAID $50 FOR THREE COURSES!!!!! RIPOFF!!!!!!!!” By Diner#Catselfie69

It sounds like an exaggeration; it’s not. It’s human nature and technology has left us hopelessly spoiled. We whine like disappointed emperors the moment a restaurant does anything other than pander to our every whim, why? Because now we have an audience. But I’m talking about someone else there, of course. Not you, precious readers and potential diners, not you – after all you are the ones who ultimately blah blah let me pat you on the head blah. Bless you, whoever you are.

You know a complaint is serious or a compliment extremely sincere when it’s handwritten. And even now, because these words too will appear on the internet, I know someone, somewhere, will be formulating a complaint in their head.

Like all things we need balance, we need to be honest in our expectations, enjoying the meal for what it is, and stop comparing notes.

Next time look around the restaurant you are dining in, count how many people are gazing lovingly into their Instagram accounts and consider putting your phone on silent, starting a conversation with your partner and enjoy the experience... then feel free to Tweet about how awesome or crap it was. Within the industry we appreciate the support the online community gives us and take on the chin the constructive feedback, even if it’s not what we want to hear. However, just remember to respect the establishment, put down your phone and eat your food.

* I use my phone more than any other human in Christendom.

Duncan Welgemoed is the Executive Chef of Bistro Dom and The Happy Motel

bistrodom.com.au


thehappymotel.com

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The Adelaide Review

Review: Orana

“After a week in Sydney, a week in North Queensland and a weekend in Melbourne, I’m going to finish my holiday with a couple of days in Adelaide. I’ve heard it’s pretty quiet there?”

I realised I’d just been charged with a mission after hanging up the phone. If it takes changing the misconceptions of a visiting Brit one at a time, then so be it. Until recently some of our overseas cousins hadn’t even heard of our city – despite the fact Adelaide is named after one of their queens – but as our food and wine renaissance continues, so grows our invigorated resolve.

With no time to get away, activities needed to remain local and at the top of my list was Jock Zonfrillo’s Orana – the restaurant the Scottish ex-pat launched last year after a few years at the helm of Magill Estate.

We stopped downstairs for a quick aperitif at the Street ADL bar. Before our guest could finish the phrase, “I went to a bar like this in…” we whisked him out, via the darkened side alleyway and up the vine entangled staircase, opening the lit doorway into the minimalist vestibule of Orana. Here is where I will draw some similarity to places I’ve dined before, but those places were 10,000 miles away on the banks of Stockholm’s islets. Sparsely decorated with arbitrary Scandinavian furniture and a row of bespoke wine-filled fridges along one wall, the style here is radical for Adelaide and certainly something new for Australia.

The word Orana translates to ‘welcome’ and is exactly how you will feel from the moment you enter until the moment you walk out. The service is exquisite. The staff are professionals who make it their life to make the dining experience more than just about the food (which is superb, incidentally). This is dinner and a show, without the smoke and mirrors.

In a subtle flurry, dishes began arriving soon after we took our seats. The first round of ‘tastes’ included a crisp saltbush, kutjera and sour cream bite. Crunchy, woody, smooth and tangy at the same time – Orana’s contemporary take on the salt and vinegar crisp – it was served alongside a beef tendon with macadamia and quandong (more familiar names, but a newly discovered combination of flavours). Next came the goat’s cheese with a quarter of beetroot, smoked for 12 hours over a fire pit. For such a small and unassuming dish, this one packed a punch with pronounced flavour and a smoky sweetness that had taste buds around the table tingling. Then, tiny carved toothpicks with skewered slivers of dry-age South Devon beef, mountain pepper and lilly pilly, and a smoked Goolwa cockle.

The ‘Alkoopina’ tastes went on – 19 different morsels bursting with flavour, and all this before the main event. The last of these piquant delights came disguised as a palate-cleansing sorbet, a guessing game of sorts – but you’ll need to test this one yourself, the tactics of war and all that gaff.

And now for the heroes: another nine to be precise.

Peas, by reputation, are generally plate fillers; buttered or minted, or pureed at best, but here they stand tall and wild upon a pile of muntries, wild plum and cinnamon myrtle. Too good to stop scooping from this perfect little dish, matched impeccably with an Italian Tiberio Pecorino – that’s a wine, not a cheese, just so we’re sure.

It was around about now that our traveller friend came up for air and exclaimed an excited “Oh” as the next main was laid out on the table. It was his first taste of kangaroo since landing in the country and once devoured I warned him he’d never try better. With a thick buttery sauce of mountain pepper with balanced spice and a slightly sweet undertone, scattered with the leaves of an ox eye daisy.

The succulent flesh of Kangaroo Island marron came next. Similar to yabbies, but three times the size, these small-clawed creatures are not as well known (or eaten) as they should be. The chef made the best use of the tail, limiting additions to finger lime and aniseed myrtle to give a slight hint of sapid tang to complement the mildly sweet taste.

Karkalla might be familiar to those who’ve spent time along the coastline, generally seen as a succulent weed but who knew it could taste so, well, succulent? Topping a fillet of black face Suffolk lamb, with fermented ruby saltbush berries and a bite-sized side of haggis, this is certainly a lamb dish, but not as you know it.

With three ‘sweeter’ dishes to go, our march continued. Through fields of young riberry leaves with unpasteurised goat’s cheese, and a sensually satisfying native currant with coconut cream, defeated only by the set buttermilk with strawberry and eucalyptus – each dessert washed down with their very own liquid complements.

They only do degustation dinners at Orana, and that’s all they need. With only 24 seats, intimacy is not a problem and the seamless service will make you feel like you’re the only guests in the room. Well, the only ones who matter, at least. Despite a reasonably hefty price tag, Orana doesn’t cut corners and they don’t want anyone to miss out. You’ll sit through at least 20 different tastes and dishes and you will almost certainly love it, especially when you let their chief drinks-guy (Josh Picken) match the wine.

And so we will soldier on with this culinary public relations challenge to reignite Adelaide as the go-to destination one re-initiated Brit at a time, with the help of a local Scotsman at the helm, no less.

Orana

285 Rundle Street

8232 3444

restaurantorana.com

 

Photos: Jonathan van der Knaap

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The Adelaide Review

Duncan Welgemoed Wins Howard Twelftree Award

The Adelaide Food & Wine Festival celebrated its final weekend with an event to remember (Garden of Eden) at Fall From Grace in Willunga, which included the presentation of the inaugural Howard Twelftree Award.

After a deliriously good fortnight filled with fine food, wine and company, the festival sought to thank the people among us who make Adelaide’s food scene what it is.

The inaugural Howard Twelftree Award recognises an individual’s outstanding contribution to our city’s gastronomical culture. The award is named for the late Howard Twelftree (AKA John McGrath), a respected and well-loved food writer for The Adelaide Review who sadly passed away last year.

“I really loved his writing; I was a huge fan,” Amanda James-Pritchard, AFWF Director, explains. “I noticed on Facebook that a really great friend of his, the artist Timothy John, had mounted a campaign for a plaque for him in the Central Market. So I spoke to a few people who knew him, like Amanda Pepe, and said, ‘I really want to create an award; I think the Festival could have this award that would be in his memory and would live on forever and ever and ever’.”

From there, the prize was an effort spearheaded by his friends. It was agreed that an annual award would be given, and that this year’s recipient would be Duncan Welgemoed, who was presented with the bespoke Jam Factory-designed award by wine writer Philip White. It was a unanimous decision that should come as no surprise – Bistro Dom’s Welgemoed (who was the brains behind the First Fruit degustation dinners at Lola’s Pergola) has been draped in too many awards and accolades to name.

The 2014 Howard Twelftree Award was presented at Saturday night’s Garden of Eden event at Fall From Grace, which featured food by Welgemoed and The Happy Motel and wine from Fall From Grace, Jauma and BK Wines.

Photos: Ben McGee

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The Adelaide Review

Random Cups of Kindness

“A free coffee when you’re down-and-out is heavenly,” Damo Carroll says, sipping at a freshly brewed latte with a neat milk foam rosetta artfully drawn on top.

The Port Adelaide man knows only too well what life is like on the poverty line. A plumber and self-confessed alcoholic, Carroll came within a hair’s breadth of homelessness after losing his licence and then his job for drink driving two years ago.

Now Carroll, 38, has become the unlikely champion of a program helping connect the needy with free coffees across Adelaide, a spin-off from a humble tradition that began in the Italian city of Naples some 100 years ago. Called caffè sospeso or ‘suspended coffee’, customers would pay in advance for another who could not afford a cup of coffee.

The elegant pay-it-forward, anonymous act of charity and kindness – in which the donor often doesn’t meet the recipient – waned as the Italian economy picked up postwar but made a comeback in recent years as the eurozone battled a long-running economic crisis. The tradition quickly spread around the world, including the US, Canada and Japan, and arrived in Australia last year. In Adelaide, more than 15 cafes are now involved.

But some Adelaide cafes have found connecting those in need with a hot cuppa challenging. In Port Adelaide, the Red Lime Shack on St Vincent Street has devised its own solution, cards bearing two tokens that can be redeemed for two coffees or one smoothie, which are given to local counsellors and non-profit group coordinators to be handed on to the disadvantaged.

The cards are also given to Carroll, who has proven a secret weapon in connecting the needy with the scheme. “[Red Lime Shack] is using me as a conduit because I’m out there busking and I can see people in need, the lower demographic or whatever, the type of people who can’t afford to give a busker a dollar,” he says. “I’ll call them over and say ‘hey, would you like to try these coffees? Don’t worry, the community’s already paid for it, the community did that for you’. And they go ‘me?’ They want to give me the shirt off their back. They’re so thankful.”

The program’s success likely lies in its simplicity. Ian Steel, a 46-year-old political research officer who lives and works in Port Adelaide, says the system provides a “really easy opportunity” to contribute to those less fortunate in his own community. He has donated about 30 coffees since stumbling across the Red Lime Shack’s scheme last year.

“I’ve seen workers doing really well, others out of jobs in really tough times, so I appreciate that anybody can find themselves scratching around for a dollar,” he says. “I’m really lucky, I’ve been in paid employment for most of my life, I can easily afford to hand over a few extra bucks. For working people who have a bit of disposable income, it’s an affordable way of making a fairly small contribution which is often much more meaningful than it seems.”

Red Lime Shack owner Stephanie Taylor says about 420 coffees have been suspended since she launched the cafe’s scheme last July and 320 have been claimed by local battlers - single mothers, troubled teens, people with mental illness and women experiencing domestic violence.

Taylor agrees that each cup of coffee represents something far greater than a simple caffeine hit. “For some people they’ve actually never walked into a cafe in their life, they’ve never thought they were worthy, as if it was something that only someone of worth could do,” she says. “But they’ve realised that anyone can go into a cafe and have a coffee and sit down and not be judged and they’re now quite comfortable to do so.”

Other cafes have teamed up with non-profit group Another Step Closer to ensure donations not redeemed in-store reach those in need. CEO Oliver Pfeil says Pages Cafe within Waymouth Street’s Koorong Bookstore recently handed over $800 to the Women’s and Children’s Hospital food program, while the Lunch Bar on Payneham Road gave almost $200 to homeless agency, The Hutt Street Centre.

Lunch Bar owner Debbie Beelitz says often customers open their wallets and give much more than just the couple of dollars needed to cover a coffee. One woman who donated $60 told staff how she had experienced homelessness as a youngster. “I guess it’s easier than having to go find a charity and it’s local,” Beelitz says.

Social media has played a large role in bringing more cafes onto the scheme and getting the word out to the community. Carroll hopes it continues to grow across Adelaide. “It gives people a break from the grind and it breaks down barriers. I feel like Santa Claus when I’m doing it,” he says.

To find participating cafes in Adelaide and across Australia, head to suspendedcoffee.com.au

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The Adelaide Review

Heston Blumenthal to move The Fat Duck to Melbourne

It was 10am at Crown Melbourne Resort and a media call was set up in the lobby – complete with a riser for the many attending photographers and videographers. When word gets out that celebrity, three-Michelin-star chef Heston Blumenthal is in town, and making an announcement at Crown Resort, you can guess what it is, but there’s still an attraction to see it live.

Blumenthal takes the stage (shorter and handsomer, in case you’re wondering), clocks the crowd and evidentially finds it larger than expected, “Flipping hell, there’s quite a lot of you,” he says as an endearing aside.

“I guess you’re expecting me to announce the opening of a new restaurant – I’ll come onto that in a minute, but in fact, what I’m going to announce now is the closing of a restaurant,” says Blumenthal, “I’m going to shut the Fat Duck and bring it here to Melbourne.”

After a beat of silence there’s applause and even a few whoops.

“It will be the furthest migration a duck of any kind, let alone a big fat duck, has ever made,” says Blumenthal.

The reality is The Fat Duck is moving to Melbourne whilst the Bray site in the UK, built in 1640, is renovated. “I want to make a really important point here – it’s not a pop-up restaurant, this is not a guest chef coming over and doing a few weeks or a period of time in somebody else’s restaurant, we are going to pick up the Fat Duck, the whole team, and fly them over. We’re even going to pick up some of the bits of the restaurant – maybe the sign maybe some leather from the chairs and incorporate it into the dining space of the new Fat Duck,” insists Blumenthal.

Although it may not be a pop-up of The Fat Duck, it is a temporary incarnation under that moniker and with the UK team.

“The plan is at the end of the year when we close for our annual Christmas shut down the staff will go off on their Christmas break and then in January we’re all going to fly here and the plan is to open The Fat Duck here in February and then we’ll run for six months and then at the end of that, we close the duck and we return to the UK. When The Fat Duck leaves, in the same space that it occupies [in Melbourne] we’ll leave behind a permanent restaurant and that’s Dinner by Heston Blumenthal.”

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The Adelaide Review

Think.Talk.Food>Wine Reader Offer

We don’t want to name drop, but, Think Talk Food Wine has some of the most dynamic, influential, forward-thinking people and provocateurs in one place.

On Tuesday April 8 at the National Wine centre as part of the second annual Adelaide Food & Wine Festival we invite you to participate in a food and wine forum with a difference. It’s going to be a melting pot of ideas, thoughts, creativity, people and provenance. Within the setting of the national wine centre we hope to encourage dialogue, discussion and debate along with birthing some great ideas that will have the potential to change the game in South Australia.

As with any regular forum there will be opportunities for networking, education and conversation but where TTFWSA takes a great leap forward is that every voice that attends counts and has an opportunity to participate and be heard.  Our theme for the day is “competition or collaboration” and 20 speakers, leaders in their fields, will each have five minutes on this topic. After a lovely lunch and wine tasting from the Hot 100 the forum will break into groups with speakers as mentors to brainstorm ideas with either competition or collaboration at their base. These will then be presented back to the forum. One idea per group.
We know TTFWSA will stir things up, create movement and celebrate South Australia, with tangible outcomes.

Get along, it’s going to be amazing. All food and wine is included in the cost for this event.

The Adelaide Food and Wine festival are offering Adelaide Review readers a 10% discount off of the purchase price. Your code is:  ADLreview

By Gil Gordon Smith and Amanda James-Pritchard

Click here to purchase tickets and enter your code

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The Adelaide Review

Gin Long Canteen

I was warned to expect a wait in line when visiting North Adelaide’s latest Asian offering. Gin Long Canteen has moved into the space formerly occupied by a much less exciting oriental offering and has made all of the right changes to create an electric mood and buzzy atmosphere, complete with neon signage and oversized mosaic wall hangings. A diner-style eatery, literally spilling out onto the pavement on O’Connell Street, with an updated interior and effective use of every surface available for eating their refreshing fusion menu.

Though unfortunate enough to be stood behind a group of complaining types not au fait with the marketing ploy of a no booking policy for groups less than six, our short wait for our table did give us time to soak in the sights and smells and to notice a familiar face working frantically in the open kitchen. Chef Nu Suandokmai has taken up residence after a short stint opening Golden Boy in the city, bringing his signature style into an eatery that has already created some noise on the culinary scene.

I do love a good play on words, but decided to skip past the Gin Long ‘Liesling’ (see what they did there?) and there was a collective groan at the table having noticed the ‘Yellow Fever’ mandarin daiquiri. The fun and frivolity of this venue does get the thumbs up for its ‘how to eat rice paper roll’ instructions on the menucum-placemat, though I wished there were some at hand to try our skill as we waited for dishes to land. Seated at a booth style table, one of many options in this jam-packed space, it’s cozy yet open enough that you don’t feel too claustrophobic; kind of like Ikea I suppose.

On advice from our cheerful waitress we started with the signature Gin Long Pandan infused gin. It arrived sealed in a ‘quirky’ plastic bubble-tea cup and was perfectly alcoholic but not as exotic or as infused as expected. The stab-it-yourself giant straw while functional in getting through the plastic layer was not the most pleasant to drink from, either. Big Gulps can stay at the footy.

Making some of our own decisions proved a winner, with a much more palatable Longview ‘Boatshed’ Rose in preparation for the spice of our first few dishes. (The wine glass also verifyied itself as a much less comical method of getting liquid to mouth.) The Miang Kam is a sweet and spicy little Thai snack with flavors of tamarind and crunchy kai lan leaf, and the Betel Leaf Cigar was a great starter, dipped in a nuoc cham sauce – an Asian meatball, if you will. Both tasty and setting us off on an adventure of balance and flavour.

As the main dishes arrived we realised we might have gone a little overboard when ordering. The dishes are all quite large, and thankfully all quite delicious. The pomegranate chicken features pan-fried chicken with more sweet tamarind and a hint of spice in the delicate sauce scattered with fresh pomegranate – easily my favourite dish of the night. The waitress had certainly got this recommendation spot on, though I may have felt a little less nexclusive as it landed on every other table around us. Popularity can be a fickle thing.

I badly wanted to try the spicy caramel chicken but to avoid the potential of same-same, and on negotiation with my dinner dates we went with the lychee duck curry – another delicious yet unassuming dish piled with cherry tomatoes and pineapple, topped with finely sliced chili and Thai basil; clean flavours with the perfect amount of heat. Lastly we tucked into the slow braised Thai beef ribs with cinnamon and Thai basil, along with a side of Vietnamese coleslaw. This melt in your mouth dish was bursting with fl avour though would have been best eaten first as we reached our dietary consumption peak.

Just as we came to terms with the imminent (overloaded) trundle home, complimentary crème caramel and chocolate mousse desserts arrived courtesy of the chef and to thank us for the slight delay between courses. A lovely gesture though these seemed out of place on an otherwise interesting Asian menu and were regrettably left as we made our way through the still crowded venue to settle the bill and depart.

Gin Long Canteen
42 O’Connell St, North Adelaide
7120 2897

ginlongcanteen.com.au

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The Adelaide Review

Premium Punks

Taras Ochota tells The Adelaide Review about the small batch of premium wine he made with Maynard James Keenan, A Sense of Compression.

Last summer, American rock band Tool hit a hiccup as they toured Australia. Just before their Adelaide concert, frontman Maynard James Keenan fell ill with a sore throat and had to postpone the gig by a day. So the rock star headed up to the Adelaide Hills, to a little winery tucked beside a hill in Basket Range, where he rested his vocal chords over a home cooked meal and joined local winemaker Taras Ochota in making a small batch of premium wine.

The seed of this star-powered collaboration stretches back some 15 years to when Ochota was a scruffy young vineyard hand, playing bass in a punk band named Kranktus. The band was briefly popular, even played the 1996 Big Day Out festival, but eventually split in 1999.

“That’s when I got more focused on making a living from wine and not just playing the top string of my bass and screaming with a distortion pedal,” Ochota, 43, says.

After ticking off an oenology degree, Ochota and his wife Amber hit the road, following seasonal vintages across the hemispheres and travelling in-between. It was during a surf trip down to Mexico in their battered Volkswagen camper van that the couple resolved to create their own Ochota Barrels wine label. “We thought we’d make some Grenache because no one was into Grenache. It was the underdog variety,” Ochota says. “Everyone was into Shiraz here in Australia. Everyone sort of pooh-poohed Grenache, it was a bit low-brow.”

Ochota Barrels launched in 2008 but not without a nod to Ochota’s punk rocker past, with their prized Grenache named Fugazi, after the American punk band of the same name. That caught the eye of US wine importer and punk nut Ronnie Sanders, who insisted the Ochotas have dinner with his friend Keenan, the wine fanatic rocker who runs his own vineyard in his spare time.

“We hired a car and drove out through all the crazy meth lab areas, two hours out to a little place called Jerome in Arizona where Maynard lives,” Ochota recalls. “He’s a bit of a maverick out there. But to me his music seems like his day job. That’s what he does and it pays the bills and that’s what he’s always done but his passion is wine. He loves it.”

The following year, when Keenan toured Australia with the 2013 Soundwave music festival, Ochota invited him up to Adelaide Hills to hang out, check out a vineyard and make some wine. The pair pressed the grapes together two months later when Keenan returned with Tool.

“They came here, we had a nice lunch, basket pressed with an old ratchet on the front verandah, just pressed it straight to barrel and that was it,” Ochota says. “We didn’t make much. We didn’t want to be greedy, we just wanted to make something special that we’d enjoy.”

They named it A Sense of Compression, just 919 bottles co-fermented with a dash of Gewürztraminer to “make the wine pop”, most of which sold out just four days after this year’s March 1 release.

It’s a phenomenon the Ochotas are becoming accustomed to. Last year, when James Halliday awarded their 2012 Shiraz 97 points – beaten only by Henschke’s Hill of Grace and Penfolds Grange – the phone rang hot with orders but everything had already been snapped up. Still, there are no plans to grow beyond the small batches that Taras and Amber, with the help of Ochota’s father Yari, can handle themselves.

“That’s where we want to be, where people are going to enjoy our wines because they’re a bit more artisan and have hopefully a bit more character, they’re not your big bulk market wines.”

Ochota aims for lean and savoury winemaking, making picking decisions based on the grapes’ natural acidity rather than their flavour. “It makes the wine a bit tighter and feminine and elegant,” he says. “At the same time we manipulate time on skins, so the wines are a bit more savoury and have a textual element that makes them different. That’s our main focus – texture.”

But, he says, the idea is not to do too much. “Less is more. It’s a hands-off winemaking style,” he says.

Did this theory spur last year’s win in the national Young Gun of Wine awards? “Could be. Doing bugger all. Lazy winemaking,” Ochota answers with a grin. “The other thing that helped is [that] the photo on our website was taken 18 years ago or something, so I still look quite young.”

ochotabarrels.com

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The Adelaide Review

Adelaide Food and Wine Festival

The Adelaide Food and Wine Festival is back for its second year of scrumptious offerings and The Adelaide Review will present two events during the April festival.

As it did in 2013, the festival will play host to a swathe of events celebrating the best Adelaide and South Australia can put on your plate and in your glass.

This year’s festival has regional and metropolitan sides to it. On one hand it will pay special attention to Adelaide CBD’s foodie hotspots, like the Central Market, the East End and the National Wine Centre. On the other, South Australia’s celebrated wine regions will play host to days and nights of revelry and fine dining in McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, the Coonawarra and the Adelaide Hills.

Keeping with the times, many of the Adelaide-centric events are themed around laneways, organic produce and discovering secrets of the city. Expect to see picnic en masse accompanied by a live Peter Combe performance, musical cruises on the Torrens and the return of the ever-successful Fork on the Road. Vegan, coffee and bacon enthusiasts will also be pleased to know tours have been catered to their individual tastes.

As a festival partner who has this year matured to a ripe 30 years of age, The Adelaide Review will be hosting the Garden of Eden event at the Fall from Grace winery. Fresh from a storming success running the food for Adelaide Festival's Lola’s Pergola, Duncan Welgemoed and the Happy Motel will cater the Garden, while Max Allen waxes lyrical on the ancient story of winemaking in clay amphorae. Garden of Eden will also pay tribute to food writer Howard Twelftree.

There is an element to the festival for those who want their intellectual palette satisfied as well. Presented by the National Wine Centre and The Adelaide Review, Think.Talk.Food>Wine will see speeches on innovation and tradition from prominent figures in South Australia’s food and wine industry. Meanwhile, history connoisseurs can expect a full course from Baudin and Flinders to Don Dunstan.

The Adelaide Food and Wine Festival may only be in its second year, but with such a broad menu of delicious events, it is hard to see it not coming back for thirds.

Adelaide Food and Wine Festival

Friday, April 4 to Sunday, April 13

adelaidefoodandwinefestival.org

Garden of Eden

Fall from Grace, 29a High St, Willunga

Saturday, April 12, 6.30pm to late

Host: Max Allen. Food: Duncan Welgemoed and The Happy Motel. Wine: Gill Gordon-Smith. Cost: $85

adelaidefoodandwinefestival.org/home/portfolio/garden-of-eden

Think.Talk.Food>Wine

National Wine Centre

Tuesday, April 8, 9am-5pm

Speakers: Sue Bell, Christina Belpiro, Mike Bennie, Amanda Daniel, James Erskine, Ross Ganf, Sally Johnson, Richard Gunner, Banjo Harris Plane, Chloe Reschke Mcguire, Trevor Maskell, Josh Picken, Warren Randall, William Skinner, Pablo Theodoros, Wendy Umberger, Duncan Welgemoed, Tim Wildman, Paul Wood and Stephen Yarwood.

Cost: $75, concession: $40

adelaidefoodandwinefestival.org/home/portfolio/think-talk-foodwine

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The Adelaide Review

Food for Thought: Honey

I really love honey and until a couple of years ago I didn’t realise that I wasn’t eating the real thing!

Under pressure from consumers and retailers, a large portion of the honey industry made a decision to give us a smooth and runny honey, reminiscent of liquid gold, but in fact, the value is as far from gold as can be.

Honey is an example of natural perfection; it is reported to have anti-viral, anti-bacterial and even anti-fungal properties. Honey is also full of powerful enzymes, antioxidants, natural vitamins and nutrients. Unfortunately, this is not what is readily available to us on a consumer level. It is often heated to refine the texture and increase the shelf life but a consequence is the removal of nearly all of the health benefits that were once naturally present.

You have to wonder when and/or who made the decision to sacrifice the health benefits so that we could spread it on our toast. Clever advertising campaigns, such as runny honey in a bear shaped squeeze bottle (now I think about it, not so clever) kept us wanting more.

Lets face it, honey can be messy and sticky; the ease of it almost spreading itself on our toast is an extremely tempting ploy. But now we know what we are giving up, it almost seems unfathomable that such an option was even considered.

Bees still pollinate one third of the world’s food supply and they have been successfully thriving on Earth for around 50 million years. There is even evidence that we have been gathering honey for around 8,000 of these years. It is safe to say that bees and honey are an extremely natural and important part of our evolution but the question is – what role will it play in our future?

Look for raw and/or low-temperature processed honey and be careful of the ‘organic’ label, it doesn’t always mean that the honey hasn’t been heat-treated.

And, if you feel so inclined, plant beefriendly flowering plants. This will help keep natural pollination of our food supply going and also contribute to the creation of one of earth’s most natural, nourishing and delicious foods - honey.

Baked Honey Cheesecake

Baked cheesecakes can be intimidating, as they have a tendency to crack when baked but the addition of a sour cream glaze hides all imperfections!

Ingredients
• 200g Nice biscuits or equivalent
• 30g butter – melted
• 875g block cream cheese – room temperature
• 150g sour cream
• 4 eggs
• 2 tablespoons plain flour
• 4 tablespoons raw honey
• 250g sugar
• 2 egg yolks
• 100g (extra) sour cream
• 2 (extra) tablespoons raw honey

Method
1. Line a spring form base cake tin with baking paper and for extra security, lightly grease the base with some of the melted butter.
2. Process the biscuits until the consistency of fine sand.
3. Add the butter and pulse until combined.
4. Press the mixture into the base of the lined tin.
5. Bake the base at 180 degrees for 12 minutes and then leave to cool.
6. Reduce the oven temperature to 160 degrees.
7. In the bowl of an electric mixer, using the paddle attachment beat the cream cheese until smooth.
8. Add the sour cream, eggs, plain flour, honey and sugar, beat until well combined and a smooth consistency.
9. Beat in the egg yolks, one at a time allowing the mixture to combine between each egg.
10. Pour the mixture into the tin and tap gently to remove any air bubbles.
11. Bake for 60 minutes or until just set and slightly golden brown in colour.
12. Allow to cool completely at room temperature.
13. Combine the extra sour cream and honey until a pouring texture.
14. Pour over the cooled cake and leave to chill in the fridge overnight.
15. Remove from the tin and garnish with seasonal fruit.
 

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The Adelaide Review

Adelaide Food and Wine Festival 2014

From social media post to eight-day, 30-plus event food and wine extravaganza four months later – the Adelaide Food & Wine Festival came out of nowhere last year to deliver a festival this town was waiting for.

The Adelaide Food & Wine Festival returns this April. Although the program won’t be out until March 11, Creator and Director Amanda James-Pritchard believes there will be between 40 and 50 events in 2014, including this year’s signature event – the Town Picnic. James- Pritchard says planning for this year’s festival is travelling at the speed of a freight train.

“We’re so far ahead of ourselves,” she explains, “if I think about where I was this time last year, let alone two weeks before. It’s fantastic. It’s all coming together really well. There’s always a few red herrings in the mix, but that’s what happens when you try and do things that are a bit out of the ordinary.”

Some of these out of the ordinary events include the return of the Don Dunstan Tribute Dinner at Fino, regional celebrations at five iconic South Australian food and wine regions such as the Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale and Think. Talk. Food>Wine, a forum featuring speakers such as Feast’s Richard Gunner, winemaker James Erskine, Lord Mayor Stephen Yarwood and wine journalist Mike Bennie. Think. Talk. Food>Wine’s theme is ‘Collaborators or Competitors’ and is presented by The Adelaide Review.

James-Pritchard, who moved to Adelaide from Melbourne six years ago, previously was a publicist for the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival and runs Kooki PR. In late 2012, she posted on Facebook about a plan to start a food and wine festival. After support from food and wine identities, James-Pritchard commenced organising. Four months later the inaugural Adelaide Food & Wine Festival was staged with 30-plus events, as well as its big-ticket dinner – Market Feast at the Central Market. Punters and producers alike embraced the festival, guaranteeing a return this year.

“It just snowballed. I thought maybe we’d have 10 events and I was really planning it around this after-hour feast at Central Market that to me felt it would be the hinge of the Adelaide Food and Wine Festival.” 

Held on Tasting Australia’s off year and when there was doubt as if the biennial event would return (it is, from April 27-May 4 with Simon Bryant and Paul Henry in charge with Maggie Beer as its patron), James-Pritchard believes this fresh air was part of its success. 

“Who knew what was happening with Tasting Australia and I just thought, ‘Well if I don’t do it now, someone else will do it’. It was a now or never thing, that’s why it came together so quickly. I had been thinking about it for the six years I’d been living in Adelaide – literally the first minute I started working in Adelaide I had the idea to have an Adelaide Food and Wine Festival.” 

The Festival hit Adelaide at around the same time that our gastronomic scene exploded with exciting new bars and restaurants.

“That’s just a fluke,” James-Pritchard comments on the timing.

Lachlan [Colwill] made his way to Hentley Farm and with Duncan [Welgemoed] at Bistro Dom and Jock [Zonfrillo] leaving Penfolds/ Magill Estate to start Orana, it is a very exciting time in food. Since I’ve been here the wine’s always been exciting with emerging varieties, but I think with the more restaurant-side of things doing well it gives people a chance to focus on the independent winemakers, people like James Erskine [Jauma] and Taras [Ochota Barrels].”

This year’s major event is the Town Picnic, which is an old school themed picnic, held at Rymill Park with guest Peter Russell-Clarke, as well as chefs Salvatore Pepe (Cibo) and Jimmy Shu (Hanuman). James-Pritchard is planning to attract thousands of people to the retro picnic, which includes a dogfriendly area for dogs and their owners.

“I’m trying to recreate my best ever family picnic from when I was a kid because I think everyone has fond memories of that. There will be four different corners of cuisines with an old school slant and North Adelaide Country Women’s Association are doing a cake stool and picnic hampers.”

The grass-roots, not-for-profit and community-driven festival has a team of about 30 volunteers including ambassadors Gill Gordon-Smith (Fall From Grace) and Rebecca Sullivan (Dirty Girl Kitchen).

“I said to them that they can be as hands off or as hands on as they want. I’m not going to push them to do anything really, except to be really great ambassadors for the festival and they have been. They’ve both done amazing things so far.”

Ultimately, James-Pritchard says she is like a party planner – as the Festival is about people enjoying themselves.

“It’s about connecting people to producers, produce and places. It’s about exploration and discovery but ultimately having a really, really good time. ”

Adelaide Food & Wine Festival 
Friday, April 4 to Sunday, April 13


Think. Talk. Food>Wine
Tuesday, April 8 (9am-5.30pm) National Wine Centre

adelaidefoodandwinefestival.org

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The Adelaide Review

Duncan Welgemoed: We’ve Got Balls

Bistro Dom Head Chef Duncan Welgemoed writes about Adelaide’s gastronomic resurgence, a locally nurtured movement that is about substance over style.

Adelaide has balls. Formerly known as the city of churches, Adelaide is now described as the new Portland; however, as Samuel Johnson put it, “No one ever became great by imitation”.

We can’t deny that we have been the butt of a few jokes until quite recently. Sometimes it’s been utterly deserved. When I first arrived in Australia, I was always asked why the hell would I want to live in this state. It was believed that we didn’t have the populace or demographic that could sustain interesting restaurants and cool bars. We should have been named the city of ‘shnitties’ (nothing wrong with a great parmi) but the recurring theme was that the people of Adelaide would not be open to change, or able to warrant something brave and different (unless it was promoted on the next episode of MasterChef).

Like every noteworthy movement, it started from the earth, the terroir – and in this case, from the primary producer. In the last five years, there has been a slow and steady movement from producers who have driven a more artisanal approach to their growing, husbandry and the fi nishing of their products. The sellers, whether farmers’ markets or wholesale suppliers, have ensured this quality product reaches our chefs and you, as the consumer, taste the point of difference. South Australian produce (rather than another soonforgotten celebrity chef) is the heart of this resurgence in our once-waning food scene.

With this all-permeating product confidence, our chefs have pretty much given the finger to whatever the next fad coming from Melbourne and Sydney is. We are producer-focused, not personality focused and having every producer engaged in the process allows each player to bring their A-game, whether they are running a small bar or a restaurant, and even those of you who cook and curate at home.

Why emulate trends from other cities when we can carve our own niche, cultivate our own style and have so much fun doing it that we don’t even look over our shoulder to see what the big boys from elsewhere are up to?

We are also very lucky to have close relationships with incredible winemakers; for me this is the heart and soul of my operation. Every release of brilliant local wine brings inspiration (without sounding too sycophantic). These cats can change the way you plan your next dish, the structure of the menu, even convince you to call in sick, open a bottle of wine and spend the night heckling the next carbon-copy reality TV cooking show.

We are becoming a state of doers. We pride ourselves on substance over style and we have that in bucket-loads; the style naturally follows.

For a while this state suffered from a hospitality brain drain because we haven’t been as dynamic as other places. What’s fantastic about this ‘renaissance’ is that more young people are deciding to stay, invest and create. This has been a quick progression and, if anything, I worry that it may soon start to suffer from market saturation – this is where we need you, the consumers, to support the creative businesses. Tell your friends, have a party, head out and fi nd the latest exciting place, because there’s no shortage of them.

We are extremely lucky to have grass-root food festivals such as The Adelaide Food and Wine Festival, which encapsulates the collaborative ethos shared between producer, chef, winemaker and customer. The festival has been an exceptional platform to throw caution to the wind and let everyone have a bit of fun. Corporate sponsors do not dictate these events, which means the narrative is pure.

I’ve been lucky enough to be given the opportunity to curate the food and beverage at Lola’s Pergola (The Adelaide Festival’s club) in conjunction with Ross Ganf, Creative Director of the club and The Happy Motel. Collaborations have emerged between unbelievable chefs, winemakers, producers, performers, party-boys, designers and artists who have a deep connection with this movement. We all have the same goal; to bring love, passion and, occasionally, a little weirdness and thrust it centre stage. What we do in this state matters - people far and wide are starting to look and get excited about what we’re doing.

This Adelaide Festival club is presenting everything that Adelaide’s food and wine culture should represent minus the spin and politics but with the highest integrity. I’m extremely proud to be cooking and living here and frankly even from a tourist point of view, as English satirist and columnist Charlie Brooker wrote when describing South Australia for The Guardian: “If the rest of the country gets any better than this, it’s quite frankly taking the piss as a nation.”

Duncan Welgemoed is the Executive Chef of Bistro Dom, The Happy Motel and Lola’s Pergola

bistrodom.com.au

thehappymotel.com

adelaidefestival.com.au/2014/club/lolas_pergola

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The Adelaide Review

Sustainable Wine

The ebb and flow of season, the constant tinkering and unpredictable impact of nature, the advances in research, raw intuition when nurturing a vineyard, the imprint of human labour versus the ease of mechanising – all of these things conspire when considering sustainability and wine. It’s a funny thing, lending definition to something that feels a bit indefinable.

First thing is first; the growing of grapes should be managed with environmental impact in mind. Organic and biodynamic farming tend to be the best practices, with the latter not only creating a farm-bound ecosystem forged from a waste-not-want-not application of viticultural practice, but an effective recycling of farm- generated product (and waste in the form of manures and composts), that work towards a home-grown sustainability.

Sustainability is, however, a bigger picture. Goals of sustainable growing are emphatically based on relative quality increase of wine grown from sustainable farming practices, and though a change and evolution to more sustainable growing requires a leap of faith for many who consider conventional farming safe and practical, its impact is a bigger picture, locally and globally

The value of sustainability isn’t to be quantified by trifles of higher points from critics or a new found adulation from wine cognoscenti, but a spiritual and environmental connection to place that isn’t always measured in terms of proven pecuniary worth, but in a feeling that connects responsibility to nature in a link to the toil of the farm. Sustainability, whether pitched to or proven, brings winegrowing closer to nature, with less chemical and environmental impact, and works to protect and enhance the environment, locally and further afield.

Key elements of sustainability can be quantified, though variances are prevalent. Soil health and fertiliser management form the basis for most benefit of sustainability, but it is coupled with pest and disease management and encouragement of biodiversity that not only benefits the growing of grapes, but a broader environmental program. Added to this are water- and waste-management programs, and following all of this comes the social impact – the benefit to local communities. Finally, for those seeking business advantage, the removal of non-sustainable product and practice costs that beleaguer a farm, forms part of the sustainability benefit.

In a remarkable step forward, and emphatically supported by the New Zealand government, New Zealand wine has implemented a sustainability charter that requires adhering to, for participation in sanctioned NZ Winegrowers events. Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) was established in 1995 and provides, in essence, “a framework for viticultural and winemaking practices that protect the environment while efficiently and economically producing premium wine grapes and wine”. Since its inception in 2007, approximately 94 percent of all vineyards are now SWNZ certified (2012 statistics), with around 20 percent of vineyards being farmed organically. It’s making a decided impact.

A similar program has been established in McLaren Vale wine region of South Australia, with a 37 percent growth in participation seen in 2013, and a total of 53 percent of all grapes crushed from the 2013 harvest working with the McLaren Vale Sustainable Winegrowing Australia principles. The regional initiative is a first-of-its-kind program in Australia and “provides growers with the means to improve practices in a way that optimises sustainability of both their business and the region”.

The McLaren Vale system works a practical application of the program with self-assessment and data reporting key to the initiative and developing of practices, fostered through a group setting. Increasingly, wineries around Australia are implementing their own measures, but these are often best suited to existing winery practices or the rigmarole of marketing and marketability, rather than making full blown steps to sustainability.

To ascertain sustainability credentials is difficult without a community or industry standard or charter. Asking questions is always the first step – if you choose to make decisions that bring to your kitchen free-range eggs over cage-grown, or you source or grow your own organic vegetables, you elect lamb cutlets that are organic, grass-fed and free-range, you are already buying into ideas of process and provenance. With this, sustainable wine goes hand-in-hand. Where wine is grown and how it goes to bottle must form part of your next and on-going conversation

 

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The Adelaide Review

Noodle Nights

Over the next four weeks the newly developed entertainment precinct on the River Torrens will be hosting street food, markets and music, as the Blue Hive on Riverbank Promenade will play host to the Friday Noodle Nights + Markets.

Four Asian food vendors will do their thing consecutively over the four Fridays, and be accompanied by a set of local musicians. The Adelaide InterContinental Hotel will also be selling noodles from their own pop up bar every Friday night.

Kids are free to play in the Imagination Playground and the Goodwood Arthouse Marketplace will have fashion and art on show from a selection of Adelaide’s designers and artists.

This week kicks off on the 21st with Ginza supplying the sushi while Adelaide songstress, Delia Obst, supplies the tunes.

In the following weeks, Nu Thai, Phat Buddha Rolls and Indochina will be serving street food to the masses, while Banjo Jackson, Sascha Marsh and Andy Mac entertain.

Johnny Yung, owner of Ginza and Indochina said, “The Blue Hive at the Riverbank Promenade is an ideal spot to meet with friends before heading down to catch a Fringe show.”

Friday Noodle Nights + Markets will be open 4pm-10pm, February 21, 28 and March 7, 14 on the Riverbank Promenade (adjacent to the Dunstan Playhouse). Admission is free.

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The Adelaide Review

Lobethal Road Triumphs Again

Adelaide Hills winery Lobethal Road Wines took out the top honour at the 2014 Royal Sydney Wine Show yesterday, winning Best Wine in Show.

The husband and wife owned winery also won Best Red in Show and Best Shiraz in Show for their 2012 Lobethal Road Shiraz. These trophies follow Lobethal Road’s (owned by Dave Neyle and Inga Lidums) recent success at the Adelaide Hills Wine Show, where the boutique winery won Best Wine in Show and Best Chardonnay for the 2012 Bacchant Chardonnay.

“It’s absolutely fantastic to receive the Best of Show Award as an endorsement of our approach to viticulture and winemaking, as well as acknowledgement of the Adelaide Hills as a region that produces high quality red as well as white wines,” Dave Neyle said in a press release. “The Adelaide Hills is known for producing aromatic whites, such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris, premium Chardonnay and sparkling wines. It’s less widely known that it also produces elegant reds, including Shiraz. I’d like to take this opportunity to thank our winemaker Michael Sykes.”

Other major South Australian winners include two trophies for Rosemount Estate’s 2012 GSM and Wolf Blass taking out the Best White Wine for its 2012 White Label Chardonnay.

To read a recent Adelaide Review feature on Lobethal Road head here: adelaidereview.com.au/food-wine-coffee/article/adelaide-hills-lobethal-road

lobethalroad.com

sydneyroyal.com.au

 

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The Adelaide Review

Food For Thought: Street Food

There is no better way to discover the soul of a country than to eat your way around the landscape and embrace the local food. I once met a person who while on vacation in Bangkok, only ate pasta at their hotel due to a fear of what would be on offer in the bustling streets below. One could argue, why travel? What’s the point of visiting a country if you can’t taste what life is like for the people who call it home?

For me, discovering new cities is all about the food and the people that line the streets serving it. Street food instantly makes most of us think of Asia and the food served on the lively streets of India but in fact, in one form or another, street food is present in all cities around the world.

The abundance of eels in the River Thames during the 18th century were put to good use with the creation of the original street food of London, the humble pot of jellied eel. Due to its popularity, mainly in the east end of London it started the eel, pie and mash revolution. However, the demand for jellied eels has since significantly declined, resulting in only a handful of small vendors still serving this signature British street food.

Wieners graced the shores of America in the 1800s with the influx of European immigrants and one of the most famous American street foods was to follow.

Wieners were sold from Dog Wagons all along the eastern coast of America and with the addition of a bun and condiments the humble wiener is now the iconic American hotdog. Would a trip to the Big Apple be complete without one?

Large shallow pans full of chickpea batter are baked in wood ovens all along the Côte d’Azur and are enjoyed by the locals from Nice to Pisa. The variations along the coast highlight the local produce found in abundance; thinly sliced artichokes or onions, wild rosemary and in its home town Genoa served with crispy whitebait.

There is no doubt that food is a universal way of connecting and although sometimes confronting, once embraced is an amazing way to break down cultural barriers. Forget the restaurants when in a new city, hit the streetsand find out what the locals are eating.

Socca Recipe

This is an excellent gluten free dish for warm summer lunches. Top the chickpea crepes with any salad of your choosing but tomato and mozzarella is a particularly delicious combination.

Ingredients
• 1 Cup chickpea flour (organic does make a difference)
• 2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 ¼ Cup of water
• Salt

Method
1. In a large bowl combine the chickpea flour, olive oil and a large pinch of salt.
2. Whisk in the water until you have a consistency similar to pouring cream.
3. Cover the batter and leave in the refrigerator for six hours or, if possible, overnight.
4. Heat a crepe or non-stick pan with shallow sides to a medium heat.
5. Spray with olive oil spray or add a tiny amount of olive oil
6. Add a ladleful of the batter to the pan and tilt to evenly coat the pan.
7. When bubbles come to the surface and it starts to shrink away from the pan around the sides, it is ready to turn.
8. Cook for a further three-to-five minutes until slightly golden brown on both sides.
9. The first one never works so have a taste and check the seasoning, adjust as required.
10. Eat warm with a light sprinkling of sea salt and cracked pepper or serve with a light salad.

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The Adelaide Review

Food Review: Daniel O’Connell

Behind the facade of a hundred-and-something-year-old building comes an enchanting tale of adventure.

This story isn’t one of faerie castles, sniggering leprechauns or fearsome hags, but a fable of wondrous beasts tracked locally from paddock to plate and butchered in the depths of the scullery; recipes torn from the pages of folklore and prepared in a flurry of delectable activity; nose, tail, and everything in between. From the heart of the kitchen to the smoked heart of an ox, matched impeccably with oyster, cornichons and capers. This is the tale of the Daniel O’Connell.

Still suffering from a time when Irish pubs received wicker and glass-panelled makeovers, the frontage maintains its heritage while some recent touches have brought the important parts of this hodgepodge venue up to date without worrying too much about cohesion. With exposed beams, brick surrounds, and ye olde timber joinery, the interior is rounded off with clunky furniture, chesterfield couches, and whiskey on display.

There’s something to be said about Irish cuisine, and it certainly isn’t potatoes. It’s black pudding with a fruity finish of peach and apple and radish. The idea of imperious blood sausage disappears when the dish lands. Served as a cube and topped with fruits it delivers an alluring scent.

The only comparison I can suggest is an American brownie – bittersweet and velvety, with a hint of chocolate to boot. Alongside is another starter, a dollop of bone marrow custard served with lavosh and gherkin (and a large hunk of the blood pudding brownie).

Not quite enough lavosh-to-custard ratio, we use the house-made sourdough bread to mop up the rest and move on to round three. It’s steak tartar, but not as you know it – and aptly named Dead Romance. I’m guessing that the personality of ‘loveable rogue’ sous chef Phil Whitmarsh shines through in this dish. Whitmars is second in command to head chef Aaron Gillespie, who is a Manse graduate and most recently peddled his wares at Grace the Establishment. These two make a formidable team; together they are building quite a reputation while creating a culinary destination.

Back to the rest of the share menu and I made a measured decision to avoid the peculiar sounding (though according to our waitress, surprisingly delicious) Pig Ear ‘Schnitty’. I appreciate the nod to Adelaide’s pub favourite, but it was back to the kitchen with that little auricle, bound for someone with less discriminating taste. I moved on to the liver parfait instead, this one served with a portion of duck breast fi llet accompanied by prune, cherry and pain d’epice – another sweet element of spice cake.

The kitchen prepares dishes with minimal waste, and I was determined to eat in the same fashion. Full but determined, two main courses arrived: Saltbush mutton, peas, parsley and ricotta, and Mulloway Brandade. The ol’ ram was given the royal treatment and the simple additions let the cut speak for itself – coated in a master stock that topped things off nicely. The Mulloway Brandade with crisp egg, trotter and grains was the lightest of all the dishes, and served with a side of spiced yogurt-coated carrots. Delicious.

The local wines are as enticing as this culinary tale, though I’ve seen most of these on lists around town before. A Yangarra Roussane served well with the entrees, and a French Vermentino followed. I’ve heard whispers of monthly culinary feasts titled Table for 10 where the guys will serve themed selections to highlight the season and tickle your buds.

If you’re Irish (at heart) and feel like a tipple then the Jameson Whiskey flights might be for you, or perhaps a flight of their exclusively imported RC Lemaire range of Champagne. Whether the Irish legend is true or not I’ve got my three wishes ready: beef shin, bone marrow and a chocolate stout dessert – he can keep his pot of gold.

The Daniel O’Connell Pub And Dining
165 Tynte St, North Adelaide
8267 4032

danieloconnell.com.au
 

 

 

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The Adelaide Review

The Great Grasby: Marion Grasby

Food identity Marion Grasby is returning to Adelaide for the Cellar Door Wine Festival, where the MasterChef alumni, cook, food columnist and author will host a series of master classes as well as a long lunch.

Grasby, who worked as an ABC journalist in Adelaide before studying gastronomy, recently moved to Bangkok due to her Marion’s Kitchen range of products. In Thailand, the MasterChef Magazine and Taste columnist can be close to her suppliers as well as travel around Asia for inspiration, ingredients and recipes.

“Marion’s Kitchen has become the main focus of what I do now,” Grasby explains about the ingredient kits, which include Thai Green Curry, Pad Thai and San Choy Bow.

“I love it because I can travel around Asia looking for cool dishes and flavours, spices and ingredients and turn them into packs that everyone back home in Australia can use everyday. It really made more sense to be in Thailand where my producers and suppliers are based. It means I can be out there and making sure everything is happening the way I want. If I want to design new products I can head out and chat to the guys about it.

It was a Marion’s Kitchen-focused move but at the same time, Bangkok’s pretty awesome. The city is famous for its fried chicken. There are street vendors on every corner selling fried chicken. Who doesn’t want to move to a city with fried chicken on every corner? Every time I walk to the office I walk past the grilled pork lady, the papaya salad lady and the fried chicken man – it’s such a delicious city.”

The master classes Grasby will host at the Cellar Door Wine Festival are Summer Entertaining, Asian Favourites and the Decadent Valentine’s Day Extravaganza.

“The cool thing about the master classes – because this doesn’t happen with every sort of food demo I do – is that you get to come along to taste the food and we run through the cooking of the dishes, so it’s really exciting.”

Like her Marion’s Kitchen products, Grasby’s events at the Adelaide Convention Centrebased festival will have an Asian influence.

“I guess because of the way I cook and my family heritage, and I’m based in Asia now, a lot of my dishes have an Asian flavour. But the cool thing about coming to South Australia is that there’s such amazing South Australian produce – the dishes will have a little Asian flavour but I will definitely use local produce.”

Grasby’s new book Asia Express will arrive this May and is based on recipes Grasby collected travelling through Asia.

“I’ve been lucky enough to travel to South Korea, Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia and Vietnam, so it features recipes from all over Asia. I always like to say I collect recipes rather than souvenirs, and when I can I smuggle in bags of peppercorn or spices – that’s not illegal in Thailand, I would never do that in Australia!” she laughs.

“I guess they’re recipes I’ve collected on my travels over the last couple of years, which is really fun and also I’ve made them [the recipes] very quick, most of the recipes you can complete in about 30 minutes.”

Cellar Door Wine Festival
Adelaide Convention Centre

Friday, February 14 to Sunday, February 16

cellardoorfestival.com.au

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The Adelaide Review

Cheese Matters: Panir

Ragini Dey is the energetic personality behind Dhaba at the Spice Kitchen. I recently met with her at the Leabrook restaurant where she revealed the tradition of panir cheese. This fresh, acid-set curd cheese is widely used in Indian cuisine.

Ragini Dey was born into a middle-class family in Mirzapur, India. She grew up in Delhi having a sense of regional food boundaries partly due to her parents. Her father was from Bengal and her mother from the north of India. Her food has been influenced by the regional styles she grew up with at her parents’ table. Ragini’s food has an exceptional balance of spices and flavour, which she says comes from years of experimenting and an uncompromising approach.

The traditional fresh Indian cheese panir (also known as paneer, and chaana in Bengal) can be grilled, used fresh, braised or baked. It is high on Ragini’s list of ingredients.

She explains: “Dairy is a big thing in India, everyone eats cheese, they make their own yoghurt and love cream. Historically, culturally and socially, milk is very important in India.”

Each household has a milking cow tethered to their verandah, she explains.

“Milk is food from the gods and anything that comes from there is very precious and appreciated.”

Buffalo, goat and camel’s milk also all play a part in this exotic cuisine.

In India, panir is used in hundreds of savoury dishes; it also forms a large part of many variations of sweet dishes and desserts. As people have become busier the tradition of making panir at home is not as popular as it was in the past. 

Ragini says that the “freshness and sweetness of a freshly made panir is worth the time and the relatively small amount of effort required to make it. When I was growing up the modern conveniences of today just weren’t available and people would make their own. You could buy it in some stores, but it was frowned upon.”

She explains that “homemade is always better” and relates it to buying a packaged spice mix of Rogan Josh. Back in the day this was unheard of.

“No one would touch such a thing, especially in India,” she explains.

“You would buy the whole spice and you would always grind it yourself. Indeed we would take our wheat to the local mill for freshly milled flour for the household.”

She questions the direction of this progress around food. “India has become more modern but some things haven’t changed. The shoeshine man is still there, but now he has a mobile phone to take all his bookings.”

Ragini's Panir
(makes 250 grams)
Ingredients: Two litres milk and 60ml white vinegar

Method
Line a large mesh strainer with a clean square of muslin (cheese cloth).
Put the milk in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat and bring to boil.
Remove from the heat and stir in vinegar.
Continue stirring until the milk starts to separate and curd forms. This should take about a minute.
Pour the liquid into the strainer lined with muslin, so that the whey drains away and the curd is caught in the muslin.
Bring in the corners of the muslin to meet at the centre and tie a knot. 
Transfer the bundle to a large bowl and sit a plate, which will f t inside the bowl, directly onto the bundle, weighed down with two-to-three cans.
Leave for about 30 minutes, or until the panir is firm.
Remove the panir from the muslin and immerse it in a large bowl of cold water.
In an airtight container, store covered in water in a refrigerator for five to seven days.

Panir can be used in curries, stuffing, dips, snacks and dessert. Different acid agents can be used to curdle, or separate, the milk producing different textures. You could try lemon or lime juice, whey, yoghurt or buttermilk. Panir can be hung instead of pressed to give a different
texture and consistency, suitable for desserts. 

This simple cheese features strongly on Ragini’s menu. I shared a variety of panir with her, each with a slightly different flavour and texture. What stood out was the fresh milkiness and clean flavour. Somewhere between a firm cottage cheese and soft feta style is the way I would describe it. The real treat, however, was sampling the traditional dishes where the cheese was combined with other flavours.

Cheese pakoras filled with panir, coriander and saffron, curries with solid little cubes of panir and rasgulla (a panir-based, syrupy dessert) were among my favourites. Ragini was 26 when she arrived in Australia. She established Dhaba at The Spice Kitchen in 1992, where she continues to create and explore a tapestry of flavours and tradition in her kitchen.

Her new book Spice Kitchen from Ganges to Goa is a must have for lovers of Indian cuisine.

Kris Lloyd is the Head Cheese Maker of Woodside Cheese Wrights
woodsidecheese.com.au

 

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The Adelaide Review

How to eat sustainably

Anyone can eat sustainably, as UK chef, beer expert and Love Food Hate Waste campaigner Richard Fox writes.

Every year four million tonnes of food is wasted in Australia at a cost of $7.8 billion. Here in the food and wine capital of Australia, each local household throws out around $517 worth of food a year. This works out to be a staggering 178kg per person annually and the impact of all this wasted food on the environment is just as shocking. Australians discard up to 20 percent of the food they purchase – just think about that – one out of every five bags of groceries you buy you throw in the bin.

There is also the environmental impact of this wastage. In Australia alone, greenhouse gas emissions associated with avoidable food and drink waste add up to the equivalent of 6.4 million tonnes of CO2 a year. By dumping that kilo of beef you didn’t use also wastes the 50,000 litres of water it took to produce that piece of meat or by ditching that kilo of potatoes that has started to shoot, costs 500 litres of water.

But with the help of organisations like OzHarvest, who recently brought me to Adelaide to help educate Adelaideans about food sustainability, there is a groundswell of people eager to help reduce waste by changing our cooking habits and attitudes towards leftovers. In my demonstrations at the Adelaide Central Market, I showed shoppers how to give new life to leftovers destined for the bin. When your vegetables are starting to look tired and drab in the veggie draw, just roast, char-grill or pan fry them, then let them cool down and refrigerate, ready to throw together for a delicious, instant meal with the simple addition of a little grated cheese, crème frâiche, tinned tomatoes or anything else that comes to hand.

Remember that ‘best before’ dates are only a guide. We need to use our senses like our grandmothers used to and start using sight, smell and taste again to gauge whether food is still good to eat. If your bananas are overripe - make banana cake; if your tomatoes are squashy – make a tasty tomato sauce; if your carrots and celery are bendy – throw them in a soup; if your cheese is starting to grow mold – cut around it. For food that really is past it, the best thing you can do is have an environmentally friendly disposal system, such as a compost bin or worm farm, to put your scraps in instead of the rubbish bin. Or if you fancy yourself as a bit of an urban-famer – get yourself some chooks!

Meanwhile on a much larger scale, OzHarvest is saving food destined for the rubbish bin and then feeding people in need. Since its yellow van hit streets of Adelaide in January 2011, OzHarvest has rescued 550,000 meals from more than 230 local food businesses, delivering quality food to 50 different charitable agencies. Iconic and well-known Adelaide food outlets such as the Adelaide Central Market, Adelaide Convention Centre and Grass Roots are just some of the great contributors to this outstanding cause.

By distributing this food to various charities, OzHarvest assist them to better and more efficiently address the underlying social problems in our society. With this support charities are able to redirect funding to programs assisting those who are disadvantaged or at risk. OzHarvest provides this service at no cost to food donors and recipients.

So what can you do at home in your own kitchens to help make a difference? 

1. Make fragile fresh herbs such as parsley, coriander, dill and chives last up to 10 times longer by wrapping them in dampened, absorbent kitchen paper, followed by cling film. Store them in the fridge.
2. Use up whole bulbs of garlic by wrapping them loosely in kitchen foil and then roasting in a 180̊ pre-heated oven for 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half, depending on the size of the garlic. Cut through the middle and squeeze out a delicious garlic puree for mashed potato, or for eating with flat bread. Once roasted, freeze in half garlic portions.
3. Keep bagged salad fresher for longer by not storing in the bag once it’s opened. Instead, transfer to a plastic container or bowl, lay over damp absorbent kitchen paper or damp, clean dishcloth, and then cover in cling film or a lid.
4. Keep small amounts of cooked leftovers such as broccoli, tinned fish, peas and potato, then combine to make a new dish such as fish cakes.
5. Don’t throw away dried herbs and spices when they’re past their best before date. Simply add more to compensate for any loss of aroma or flavour.
6. Plan meals. Shopping for specific ingredients with meals in mind and taking a list helps ensure we use what we buy. Buying foods that can be used for several different dishes gives us flexibility to create different meals.

ozharvestadelaide.org

 

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The Adelaide Review

Pure Boutique Coffee Bar

Pure Boutique Coffee Bar is the go to place in Glenelg for coffee at almost any time of the day or night. They boast a bar and restaurant to give the customer a complete boutique experience in the one great location. Open until late, this means you can have a high quality coffee experience before enjoying a late caffeinated night out.

It was great to experience a friendly, welleducated barista behind the machine. He went through all the different beans, blends and brands they had on offer and recommend I try the Colombian Finca Tamana for my espresso. The aroma was sweet and the crema was golden brown. Normally Colombian coffee is sharp and full-bodied but the Finca Tamana produces a unique light taste that has a berry/sultana fl avor normally found in Ethiopian coffee.

The latte was a blend called Harvest by Five Senses, which consisted of beans from Guatemala, Honduras and Costa Rica. It was presented with a symmetrical Rosetta leaf as the latte art and the Costa Rican zing was prevalent with the fi rst sip. It had a zesty after taste that lingered in the mouth with the Tweedvale milk, which wasn’t too creamy for the blend.

Pure Boutique Coffee Bar uses and rotates different coffee suppliers from all over Australia, which is a defi nite point of difference but they assure me that the consistency will always be there with every visit. It lives up to its pure and boutique title.

Pure Boutique Coffee Bar
34 Jetty Rd Glenelg
8294 2410

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The Adelaide Review

Vineyard of Dreams

Lobethal Road’s Bacchant Chardonnay 2012 trumped the recent Adelaide Hills Wine Show winning the Best Wine in Show and Best Chardonnay gongs.

With the Adelaide Hills currently riding high as a vibrant wine region, Lobethal Road owner Dave Neyle says the win is pleasing as the awards are a “vote of approval for our approach to winemaking, which has at its heart a desire to allow the distinctive fruit flavours to express themselves in a sustainable and pure way”.

Adelaide Hills’ wines have won the last two Adelaide Review Hot 100 South Australian Wines shows and featured prominently in James Halliday’s recent top 100 list. Neyle believes there is enormous promise for the region.

“The Hills have always had a reputation in the industry for producing high-end fruit. But we’re still a young and emerging region, with some way to go before we reach our full potential. As with all regions, we have a few poor sites that should never have been planted so our challenge is to address this in future and to keep on improving.

“It is positive to see that we are starting to gain the recognition we deserve as a vibrant region that’s home to some of the country’s most distinctive premium wines,” Neyle explains.

“That said, the mood is somewhat tempered by the fact that we’re not quite out of the downturn yet, there’s still something of a wine glut and the Aussie dollar remains high.”

Lobethal Road entered six wines in the wine show, winning six medals and two trophies. Neyle says the Bacchant Chardonnay 2012 is a wine that “elegantly delivers a sophisticated nose with a complex palate of citrus, white peach and biscuit cream tones and is ready for drinking.”

Neyle and his wife Inga Lidums established the boutique winery in 1998 and are joined by winemaker Michael Sykes. Their wines require minimal intervention, as their philosophy is that wine is all about the vineyard.

“That’s where it starts, that’s where most of the activity takes place and you therefore need to choose the right site if you’re to succeed. We’re fortunate in this regard, with our five-hectare vineyard nestling on a northeasterly slope at the foot of Mt Torrens, in rich soils that produce wines with an abundance of cool climate characteristics. After that, clonal selection, pruning, irrigation, canopy management, yield, harvest timing and balanced use of oak are all equally important.”

Lobethal has always used an environmentally sustainable approach to vineyard management and lifestyle.

“We are not on the electricity grid so rely on solar power and generator backup, something we’ve been doing almost since inception back in 1998. In the vineyard, we use copper and sulphur only in a good season.”

Lobethal Road will be taking part in the Hills’ annual celebration – Crush.

“Crush is all about great wine, great food and great music… and that’s what’s on the Lobethal Road menu for Crush 2014. We’ll be showcasing our award-winning white and red wines, we’ll have renowned Adelaide Hills chef Ali Seedsman attending to all things culinary, and those great musos, Nikko and Snooks (Nik Karidis and Snooks La Vie) will provide the sound.”

lobethalroad.com

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The Adelaide Review

Cheese Matters: Cheese Slices

Over the years, so many people have shared interesting, funny or favourite cheese stories with me and I will be sharing a few of these with you in the coming months. I thought it would be entirely appropriate to begin with a great cheese mate and one of Australia’s best cheese experts, Will Studd.

Will has worked with artisan cheese makers since establishing specialist food stores in central London in the 1970s. In 1981 he migrated to Melbourne where he has consistently strived to promote a greater understanding of what good cheese is about, as well as championing the cause for cheese made from raw milk – an issue I am also passionate about.

Will’s first book, Chalk and Cheese, was published in 1999 and its follow-up title, Cheese Slices, was published in 2007. Will has been the executive producer and presenter of Cheese Slices, a television program conceived in 2002 that explores the world’s traditionally made cheeses. It comes as no surprise that when I spoke to Will that he had a swag of wonderful cheese stories to tell.

He recalls being on the Island of Sardinia, Italy, where he met shepherds for the filming of Cheese Slices (season four, episode two). The Sardinians are extraordinarily generous with their hospitality, and were completely oblivious to the fact that the film crew were there to do a job. They offered wine to all at some ungodly hour of the morning – apparently a perfectly normal Sardinian gesture. After a very long day with the shepherds, the crew and Will hiked up into the mountains.

They settled in a rustic barn, and were offered pane carasau, a traditional flatbread from Sardinia. This flatbread recipe is very ancient and was developed for shepherds, who wouldstay far from home for months at a time. Much to Will's despair, cauldrons of goat meat simmered away in the corner, he explained: “As a vego, you can imagine what I was thinking about that: I‘ll be here for hours watching everyone eating cooked goat and all I’ve got is this bit of flatbread!”

Will’s gaze then meandered to the ceiling of the barn, where clusters of odd-looking bags were hanging. The bags were stuffed fit to burst, the casing stretched to the point of transparency. On closer inspection he realised the bags are indeed goat stomachs, full of semi-dried curd cheese.

One of the shepherds offered to take a bag down, to place it in front of Will. Resembling chrysalis for the pupae of butterflies more than something one would consider eating, the shepherd split the stiff outer casing, exposing the creamy, gooey innards for Will to eat. The shepherd explained they simply take the kid’s stomach, fill it with milk and leave it to mature.

Will chuckles as he tells me, “All the shepherds were dancing around quite excited, saying it is good for your love life! You know, if ever cheese tastes a bit iffy it is always good for something. Remember Kris, if you need to sell cheese just get out there and offer it as an aphrodisiac!” The shepherd gestured for Will to use his fingers to scoop up the gooey cheese. Somewhat reluctantly Will proceeded to dip his hand into the fermented goat stomach and produced a scoop of glistening curds. With each taste of pungent cheese, he took large gulps of wine to wash it down and remembered that this was his dinner that night. 

The cheese is called callu de cabreddu, a strong cheese with an exceptionally pronounced bucky flavour.

“Because of the way it was made, it had that great primeval feeling, that this was the way the cheese was invented and this was the way cheese should be,” Will said. “[It was] defi nitely one of those moments where I had to question whether I really should be putting it in my mouth. The cheese itself was fascinating – the experience a little scary.”

Callu de cabreddu is still made according to traditional methods once used by the prehistoric Astor tribes that originally inhabited the island.

When a kid is butchered, its fourth stomach is emptied and cleaned thoroughly. It is then filled with raw milk and hung up to mature on stands in a cool place. The cheese is then aged, a process that lasts until the stomach stiffens to almost board-like hard, for around four months. During aging it can be smoked, where the fumes from the outside and the natural enzymes in the milk combine to encourage coagulation producing a creamier cheese with a tangy taste and a pungent smell. Will described the callu de cabreddu experience as fascinating, challenging and one saved by extremely alcoholic red wine.

Another four amazing cheese stories immediately followed: maggots in Corsica, moose in Sweden, yaks in Bhutan and shooting cheese in England, all of which I will save for another day. All of this confi rms the wonderful tapestry of cheese all over the world. Finally, I asked Will about his favourite cheese. He doesn’t have one – his favourite changes with the season and the country he is visiting at the time.

Kris Lloyd is the Head Cheese Maker of Woodside Cheese Wrights
woodsidecheese.com.au
cheeseslices.com

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The Adelaide Review

Jamie Oliver’s Italian Adelaide

Rumours that Jamie Oliver would be opening another restaurant in Australia were finally confirmed late last year and foodies all across the State rejoiced.

Adelaide will become the fourth Australian city to have its very own Jamie’s Italian, which is scheduled to open by the end of 2014. If the success of the Sydney, Perth and Canberra restaurants is anything to go by, we can expect long queues and packed houses every night of the week.

Something else we can expect from the popular brand is high-end interior design. The new restaurant will be located in the previously vacant historic Westpac Bank site at 2 King William Street. It’s a building with ‘good bones’ – high ceilings, generous floor space and robust materiality – and this ensures an exciting fit out that will be a pleasure to experience.

Australian design practice peckvonhartel are the interior designers working in collaboration with London-based Martin Brudnizki Design Studio to bring the Jamie’s Italian brand to Adelaide. Their successful partnership realised the Sydney, Perth and Canberra restaurants and the Adelaide one will follow in the same vain.

Although layout is still under wraps there are key signature design features that will most certainly be included in the new fit out. These contribute to the eclectic aesthetic of Jamie’s Italian, which is a dynamic mix of industrial grittiness, opulent luxury and contemporary cool. It finds its expression in the strong material palette that includes reclaimed timber, steel, tile, glass and concrete.

A design feature that instantly springs to mind is the over-sized chandelier. In Perth and Canberra it hangs in the middle of the space, while in Sydney it hangs above the pastamaking station at the front of the restaurant.

It remains to be seen where it will be placed in the Adelaide fit out, but it will be sure to attract attention wherever it is installed.

The pasta-making station is also a key feature and the decision to have it front-of-house brings a sense of theatre to the overall fit out.

In both the Sydney and Perth restaurants this station can be seen from the street (through the queue of people) and it does its job in attracting casual passers-by.

In each of the other three restaurants a different local street artist was invited to paint a mural on one of the interior walls. Although nothing is confirmed as yet, it seems likely that peckvonhartel will follow suit in the Adelaide restaurant. The involvement of a local artist strengthens ties with the community as well as enlivening the space with extra colour and movement.

The choice of 2 King William Street as the location for Adelaide’s new Jamie’s Italian restaurant is a refreshing one. It re-activates and energises an otherwise dead corner of the CBD and provides people with yet another destination culinary experience. Get prepared for the queues and always remember to enter on an empty stomach.

pvh.com.au
jamieoliver.com/italian/australia/home

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The Adelaide Review

Lofty Valley Wine

Brian Gilbert is a throwback to a grand old Australian tradition that stretches back to the mid-19th century – think Penfold, Lindeman, Angove and Kelly – of the vigneron-doctor. But rather than growing wine as a tonic for his tubercular patients, he cultivates a modest crop of pinot noir and chardonnay on the slopes of a vertiginous vineyard near Summertown, behind Mount Lofty, simply because he enjoys it.

Having taken top spot in the latest Adelaide Review Hot 100 South Australian Wines with his 2012 Lofty Valley Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, there is also mounting evidence that he’s pretty good at it, even though his pinot vines only went in in 2007.

The big accolade for what is effectively his second bottling of pinot – the 2011 crop was abandoned as a bad job – finds Dr Gilbert chuffed and bemused in equal parts.

“I’m not sure what I’ll do next year, “he says.

“I think I’ve set the bar a bit high.”

It was yet another doctor, Sydney surgeon Max Lake, who is credited with getting the whole miniature winemaking movement started when, in the 1960s, he commuted to the Hunter to grow a patch of cabernet, against all advice. Gilbert’s vineyard too is suitably small, with his pinot occupying only two acres of hillside. “No-one’s got a smaller vineyard than me that’s got a label – that I know of,” Gilbert says.

But whereas the two-hour trip to the Hunter made Lake a weekend winemaker, Gilbert can drive to his day job in less than half-an-hour:

“That’s how it all started – it was my desire to have a wine label, and to be able to get to work.”

The steepness of the site is no piece of cutesy copy-writing – the slope ratchets up from 25 to 45 degrees, and it isn’t at all unusual for Gilbert to lose his footing and take a tumble while working on the vines.

“I should have killed myself several times, but I haven’t,” he says.

He prunes the pinot on his own in the winter, a row per day before driving down to the Plains to work. His approach to pruning borders on the savage, since he has found that low yield, as little as a tonne per acre, repays him in flavour.

Gilbert thinks the angles may have something to do with it too; the slope catches the sun late in the morning and the afternoon rays depart early, meaning the vines see as much as three hours less sunshine than a more exposed site. At the bottom of the vineyard where the creek runs, the temperature on a hot night can be 10 degrees cooler than on the Plains.

While thrilled to be put on the map by the Hot 100 for the drinkability of his pinot, Gilbert was also pleased to see it win bronze medals at the Adelaide Hills and Melbourne wine shows.

“They’re looking for different things, and to do so well is a very good sign for fi ve-year-old pinot vines.”

For those who track down some of the winning wine, Gilbert proffers some tasting advice straight from the three bears: “If it’s too warm, it’s not as good, and if it’s too cold it’s not as good. It really does change a remarkable amount with three or four degrees.”

With his 2013 crop vinified by winemaker Brendon Keys and in the barrel, Gilbert says the wine is remarkably similar to its predecessor, “but maybe a bit better.”

It seems that having the luxury of making wine without economic s as a driver is paying off.

“It’s all about trying to make good wine; I‘m not thinking about the price-point or the budget. I don’t need to be a success – I just want good wine,” Gilbert says.

But there’s no earthly reason you can’t do both at once.

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The Adelaide Review

Food For Thought: Lamb

I remember learning about the Macarthur family dynasty at school and how important the wool and lamb industries were to the newly colonised Australia.

Today we are the largest wool-producing country in the world and our production of lamb is not far behind. Meat and Livestock Australia estimates around 74.7 million sheep make up the national flock count, more than three times the amount of people. With lamb farming so steeped in Australian history I wanted to find out what lamb farming will mean for future generations.

The next generation is most evident at the Savannah Lamb Farm in the Clare Valley. A truly sustainable, or even regenerative, farming model is in practice and the stress-free sheep are producing some of the country’s best lamb.

Phil and Michele hand-raise around 60 lambs every year creating an unbreakable bond between them. The use of dogs, motorbikes and other herding techniques are all made redundant, as the 60 ‘children’ who have returned to the flock share their trust for Phil and Michele with the others. Although micro farms like Savannah Lamb have their limitations and possibly some practicality issues for larger-scale farming, the ideology is something all farming should strive for.

Whilst large-scale farming will always need and have a place in society, it will be the practices of these farms that will need to change and meet the standards of a more educated and aware society. The best way to show support for ethical, clean and sustainable farming practices is to support it with consumer demand. 

Lamb is one of the most patriotic meats around and what better day to celebrate lamb than on Australia Day. Whether it is a lamb chop on the BBQ or a lamb sausage roll, support ethical farming practices by buying the best lamb you can fi nd and you will help shape the future of farming for generations to come.

Lamb and Cumin Sausage Rolls

This recipe works with regular lamb mince but it is great with minced shoulder; your butcher will do this for you.


Ingredients
• 1 green apple
• 1 red onion
• 1 garlic clove
• 500g lamb mince  
• 1 teaspoon chilli flakes
• 2 teaspoons toasted cumin powder
• 1 egg
• Sea salt and black pepper
• 2 sheets of puff pastry or sour cream short crust
• 1 egg, beaten

Method
1. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.
2. Quarter the apple and remove the core.
3. Peel and halve the red onion.  
4. Grate both the onion and apple on the coarse side of a hand held grater.
5. Peel and grate the garlic clove on the fine side of the grater.
6. Place the grated apple, onion and garlic with the lamb mince, chilli flakes, cumin and egg into a large bowl.
7. With clean hands, mix until well-combined.
8. Season with salt and pepper (heat a frying pan and test a small amount of the mixture and adjust the seasoning and required).
9. Trim the pastry into approximately 13cm strips and place onto a baking tray lined with baking paper.
10. Divide the mixture into four portions and pipe or spoon down the centre of each pastry rectangle.
11. Brush the beaten egg down either side of the mince.
12. Bring the sides of the pastry over the mince, one of top of the other. Gently press down to create a seal, roll them seal side down.
13. Place the tray into the freezer for 10 minutes for the pastry to chill down.
14. Cut each roll into your desired length and place evenly on a baking tray.
15. Brush with egg wash and bake for 20 minutes or until golden brown and the pastry is cooked throug

@annabelleats

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The Adelaide Review

Luke Southwood: Public CBD’s New Head Chef

After a decade in Byron Bay, new Public CBD Head Chef Luke Southwood says Adelaide’s food scene has matured in the time he’s been away and he’s looking forward to contributing to it.

Southwood was Head Chef at Byron Bay’s award-winning Dish before moving to The Sanctuary, the ‘world’s most exclusive rehab’ as its Catering Manager. 

While the Spanish-trained chef was at Dish, the restaurant was awarded a Chef’s Hat from the Sydney Morning Herald (2004-06) and one star from Gourmet Traveller (2005-06). Southwood’s career suffered a set back after a car accident in 2010 but a call to compete in MasterChef Professionals, under the mentorship of Marco Pierre White, reignited the fire in his belly. After the MasterChef experience (where Southwood finished eighth in the competition featuring professional chefs),  Southwood returned to South Australia, the state where he worked at institutions such as d’arry’s Verandah and Port Elliot’s Flying Fish Cafe and alongside local icons such as Maggie Beer.

As Public CBD’s new Head Chef, Southwood replaces the Restaurant & Catering Awards 2013 Chef of the Year, Stewart Wesson, who will open his own restaurant in 2014.

“I moved back in July for a number of reasons,” Southwood explains.

“I spent the last 10 years living in Byron Bay and my eldest daughter lives here. So, I came back for family reasons. Adelaide’s food scene has grown up a lot in the last 10 years. I came back without a clear plan of what I was going to do. The car accident I had a few years ago put a bit of a stop on my career but then this [Public] came along, which is a Monday to Friday breakfast and lunch gig, which is unheard of in this industry. It’s something that with my postaccident physical capabilities I wanted to give a shot. It’s an amazing venue with fantastic owners and I really love the philosophy they’ve got here. It just spoke volumes for me.

“It is a very exciting time to come back and with the new Adelaide Oval, I think the North Terrace precinct is really going to bloom in the next couple of years. There are lots of funky little bars and pop-up restaurants happening and there are a lot of good chefs in Adelaide doing really good food. It’s nice to be part of that scene again and I’m just looking forward to bringing my own personal style and putting my own stamp on Adelaide.”

Southwood said the MasterChef experience was a once in a lifetime opportunity.

“I ummed and ahhed about it for a little while. My logic and reasoning was that if I didn’t do it then I’d probably regret it because it isn’t the opportunity you get every day. It helped me regain my confidence... well, not necessarily confidence but just the passion, the spark and that love of food. MasterChef  was a very different experience – it was great and just got me fired up again.”

On MasterChef Professionals, Southwood cooked under the guidance of Marco Pierre White, the talented and fiery chef who turned British dining on its head in the 80s when he was the youngest chef to ever be award three Michelin Stars. Southwood said White was an absolute gentleman.

“Marco was a very genuine guy and took a lot of time to make sure that he spoke to all of the contestants and gave us tips every day. If we asked him a question on anything like a technique or something then he’d be very happy to share his wealth of experience. Rubbing shoulders in the kitchen with the great Marco Pierre White was really a magnificent thing and something I’ll never forget.”

Southwood’s new menu for Public will be available from early January after the Franklin St cafe returns from its Christmas break. The menu will reflect his Spanish background and training.

“My background is very much in Mediterranean food and it will obviously tap into Spanish food because that’s what I love to do, especially Catalan and Basque. Northern Spain is where my main influences are from, so you’ll definitely be seeing some Spanish stuff on the menu.”

In Southwood’s words his menu will be: “Simple, elegant, delicious and fast with a lot of love, which is the main thing.”

“Even when I was running Dish in Byron, which was a Hatted restaurant, [the food was] very simple in essence – it’s not 14 components per plate, foams and molecular gastronomy. I tend to harp back to the training I received, which was from classic Spanish chefs, and real old school traditional food done with a modern twist. I think the style of food that they do here is very much up the alley of what I do anyway, so it’s just going to be a matter of tweaking it a little bit to suit the venue really. I think what we’re aiming to do is quite casual, simple food in essence but quite elegant as well.”

publiccbd.com.au

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The Adelaide Review

Mustard Fruit and Apple Cider Glazed Ham Recipe

Mustard fruits are an Italian pantry staple and are poached baby fruits in a mustard spiked syrup. They make the perfect accompaniment to cold meats, cheese or with pork in general.

 

Ingredients

1 free-range leg ham
250g jar of mixed mustard fruits with the syrup
375ml of apple cider
cloves

Method

1. Remove the skin from the ham to expose the fat layer.
2. Using a clean stanley knife score the fat into even lines in two directions, creating a diamond shape.
3. Stud the middle of each diamond with a clove.
4. Chop the mustard fruit into rough pieces; add the syrup and 50ml of apple cider to an electric mixer and blitz until a smooth paste.
5. Place the ham into a large alfoil dish or lined baking tray and pour in the remaining apple cider.
6. Coat the scored ham with a layer of the paste and bake in a 150-degree oven for one and a half hours. Every 15 minutes re-glaze the ham; if you run out of glaze start to use the sticky pan juices.
7. Leave to cool for at least two hours before serving.

@annabelleats

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The Adelaide Review

OzHarvest Tree Of Goodness

OzHarvest is delivering the Tree Of Goodness during the 8 days before Christmas, with thanks to the Adelaide Central Market.

This Christmas, you can support OzHarvest in their mission to eliminate hunger and food waste by rescuing and redistributing good food which would otherwise go to landfill.

The ‘Tree of Goodness’ will be launched on Tuesday and you will be able to purchase a $5, $10 or $20 gift tag with all donations going to OzHarvest. You will also be able to donate non-perishable food items or purchase the OzHarvest cookbook. To symbolise each donation, a yellow sticker will be placed on the tree.

For every $1 donated, OzHarvest can deliver 2 meals for vulnerable men, women and children this festive season/

The ‘Tree of Goodness’ will be in stall 61 from 17-24 December.

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The Adelaide Review

Tasmanian Wines

It is not easy to pinpoint when Tasmania’s wine industry started. Of course there were the explorers who brought European ideas of agriculture and ownership, and in so doing, irrevocably changing the life and landscape of Tasmania forever.

Abel Tasman was the first European to sight the island in 1642 when he sailed by on his warship Heemskerk. Then there was Captain Bligh, who is said to have planted the first fruit trees and vines on Bruny Island in 1788. George Bass sailed up the Derwent in 1802 on his circumnavigation of Tasmania with Matthew Flinders and noted the suitability for viticulture. Each journey added a new layer to what has become the modern wine industry.

Yet no matter how brave the explorers or how bold their plans, none of this would be possible if Tasmania’s natural history hadn’t made it suitable for viticulture. Tasmania’s position on the high latitudes means it is exposed to the weather from the Indian Ocean, Bass Strait and Tasman Sea. These prevailing winds lash the coast with rain and cooling winds. In addition, a series of ancient volcanic uplifts have created the valleys and mountains that contribute to The rugged terrain and complex terroirs.

Today, the evolution continues as a new band of explorers focus their viticultural attentions on Tasmania. This activity is driven in part because of the effects of global warming, sending winemakers in search of cool climate vineyards; and part because drinkers have become more aware of the pleasures of cool climate wines, of which Tasmania makes some of the finest. For Tasmania’s new band of explorers, the state abounds with new frontiers and possibilities. Here are a few reasons why …

BAY ON FIRES
Riesling 2013
Tamar Valley
RRP $35
bayoffireswines.com.au


“Find balance and beauty will follow,” says winemaker Peter Dredge of his approach to winemaking across a range that includes still and sparkling wine.

“We share our ideas, our knowledge and our curiosity to bring out the best in every parcel of fruit. We balance acidity against sweetness to create delicate Rieslings.”

This wine, the 2013 Bay of Fires Riesling, manages just that. An attractive and intriguing expression of Riesling, it brims with aromas of grapefruit, lime, blossom and musk. It delivers more of the same on the palate, all zipped up with a lovely line of acid.

 

TOLPUDDLE
Chardonnay 2012
Coal River Valley
RRP $65
tolpuddlevineyard.com

The latest venture from Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith of Shaw + Smith in the Adelaide Hills, this project came about when the pair travelled to Tasmania in 2011 ‘for a look’ and came back as owners of the esteemed 25-year-old vineyard. This is the first release of the Tolpuddle label, which includes two wines – a Pinot Noir and this, the Chardonnay, a lean and racy wine of elegance and finesse. Brimming with lemon and citrus notes, the palate offers minerality, some nutty complexity and a long and racy finish.

And the name? “The Tolpuddle Martyrs were English convicts transported to Tasmania for forming an agricultural union.”
 

STARGAZER TASMANIA
2012 Pinot Noir
Tasmania
RRP $50
stargazerwine.com.au

“Stargazer is about stopping every now and then to look upward towards the heavens,” and is the new venture from winemaker and wine judge Samantha Connew. The label pays tribute to Abel Tasman who “must have spent a fair amount of time gazing towards the heavens”.

For Sam, a native New Zealander, Tasman was an obvious link as he was the first European to sight both Tasmania and the South Island of New Zealand. This first release also includes a Riesling from the Derwent Valley. This wine, the Pinot Noir from Huon Valley, spills with cherry, raspberry and herbal aromas while the palate continues with nicely woven oak and a pleasing hint of spice.


HOLYMAN
Pinot Noir 2012
Tamar Valley
RRP $50
stoneyrise.com


Like the original explorers, Joe Holyman has seen a lot of the world. A native Tasmanian, he has completed vintages in Douro, Provence and Burgundy and travelled to many other parts of the world making and drinking wine. In 2004, he and wife Lou returned to Tasmania, purchased a vineyard and started making wine under the Stony Rise and Holyman labels. The results are excellent. This, the 2012 Holyman Pinot Noir is an intense and vibrant wine that brims with red berries and wild strawberries flecked with a hint of spice.

The ride continues on the palate with intensity, spice, berry aromas, a firm structure and long and lovely length.

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The Adelaide Review

Vanessa Altmann: A Whole New World

Switch Wine’s Vanessa Altmann returned to the Hot 100 SA Wines judging team this year after her first experience changed her approach to winemaking.

After three days of stained red teeth and cultural adventure, The Adelaide Review Hot 100 SA Wines experience is one that challenges and engages the assessors to view wine differently. The judges not only assess the technical aspect of the wine’s quality but also dig deeper to truly experience each drop.

Whether we drink wine socially or formally assess it, the Hot 100 acknowledges that our consumption doesn’t occur in a vacant space but is actually bursting with outside influences. But what if we took this experience a step further, as drinkers and judges, to embrace the cultural essence of wine, which is equal to its technical quality?

A whole new world opened for me as a winemaker after my first Hot 100 experience. A stronger connection emerged between my culture and the wines as an expression of my surroundings, values and influences.

This connection is part of the Hot 100 experience. Wine assessors are immersed in vast spectrum of culture, from street food and fine dining experiences to visits to Adelaide’s Museum of Economic Botany and the Adelaide Botanic Gardens. This city’s culture surrounds us. It is the song in my head, the memories of shared meals and wine.

A wine assessor’s palate is not only made up of taste buds, but also a connection to the mind and heart, which is fuelled by experiences from the past and hopes for the future. It is the realisation that each judge’s interpretation of wine quality will vary from the judge standing next to them, or taken in another context, the person who is sitting beside them in a wine bar.

With these fresh insights I took my wine home, away from the lab, and put it back on my family’s table. I began to embrace this connection to culture as the wines I created evolved; it was a conscious production shift to live each wine as it was created. This has completely changed the intent and my interaction with each parcel of fruit. This shift in focus allowed the wines to lead me along their journey, to be present as they evolved and I find new ways to relate to my love of wine and celebrate its diversity.

I embarked on a new kind of wine this year, a wine to reflect the value of connections to what we drink and how this interplays with the community. Organic fruit was grown and picked by friends – fermented whole white grapes on skin, with stalk – and finally handbottled in the same place.

The vibrancy of South Australia’s food, wine, music and culture do not exist as individual threads, but are among many weaved through our community fuelling much richness. The Hot 100 SA Wines brings a new momentum to our conversation around what culture means to each of us and is imprinted in the minds and hearts of those engaged and revitalised by its celebration of South Australia.

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The Adelaide Review

Cheese Matters: Raw

Oriol Urgell, a Barcelona cheese expert, recently paid me a visit at the cheese factory in Woodside.

His experience spans for more than 20 years with the Spanish and EU dairy industries; he is also an accomplished cheese judge. His purpose in Australia was primarily to visit cheese makers to assist them with technical aspects of their craft and their facilities. I took Oriol through a Woodside Cheese Wrights degustation in order to gain insights about our cheese making standards given his vast judging experience.

One cheese stood out for him and perhaps came as no surprise. Our raw milk version of the semi-hard goat-milk cheese we call Figaro. His brow furrowed in deep concentration before he said, “This is the best cheese I have tasted all year. This is very good, it is elegant but has length of flavour and is very complex, I am very happy to taste this.”

I had to explain that this cheese was only for tasting, it is not commercially available due to our current Food Safety Standards regulations laid down by Food Standards Australia and New Zealand.

I have been making raw milk cheese for more than 10 years for my own interest and use. I have conducted many blind tastings over this period with individuals across many disciplines who I consider to have excellent palates. When I make these cheeses I ensure they are made from the same milk source on the same day; one batch raw, one batch pastuerised and fi nally matured in identical conditions for the same length of time. Interestingly all the fi ndings have consistently pointed to the raw milk version as a complex and more dynamic offering with length of flavour and a slight paste colour variation.

When travelling, this is also consistent with my own experience with raw milk cheese. I personally would like to have the choice of making raw milk cheese and I believe the consumer should also have the choice to purchase raw milk cheese. It puzzles me somewhat, that I can purchase raw milk Roquefort legally in Australia. It is made in France, using French milk from somewhere, by an unknown French cheese maker, shipped to Australia over several days and it is all quite legal. I, on the other hand, a reasonably well-known Australian cheese maker, who can point to the local milk source and ship to retailers next day, am forbidden to make the same cheese and have it commercially available for consumers who wish to buy it.

Nobody in their right mind would want to produce anything that could be harmful to eat, that is why we have food safety systems and they most defi nitely have their place. However, if I am prepared to make raw milk cheese within a tight food safety framework and test it before I release it for sale – and if the cheese is microbiologically safe – why then can I not have the choice to make and sell this product?

Currently there is a clause in the Standard that allows a version of raw milk cheese making, which is a step in the right direction, however, it is not true raw milk cheese making and it does not allow styles such as Roquefort, which are higher in moisture and softer, to be produced. While I am working within that framework to bring my version of raw milk Figaro, which we will name Greedy Goat, to market I have had to change the way I produce the cheese to meet the criteria and obviously the result is different.

Kris Lloyd is Woodside Cheese Wrights’
Head Cheese Maker
woodsidecheese.com.au

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The Adelaide Review

Crush Festival Announce 2014 Program

Adelaide Hills wineries’ annual festival of frivolity, Crush Festival, has announced its program for 2014, with plenty to enjoy in the celebrated wine region from Fri Jan 17 – Sun Jan 19.

Unsurprisingly, the focus of Crush Festival is on food wine, with several wineries opening their doors for wine tastings, tutorials and various lunches and breakfasts. Some events will be free entry, such as Golding Wines’ Crush markets, with many wineries offering their picturesque grounds for family picnics. At the other end of the spectrum, Petaluma’s Bridgewater Mill is hosting a $150 per person degustation lunch.

All information and details of the various events taking place at Crush Festival 2014 can be found at crushfestival.com.au.

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The Adelaide Review

Easy Tartare Sauce Recipe

Easy tartare sauce which is delicious on Seafood over Christmas! You can even eat it with your leftover ham, yum!

Ingredients

4 egg yolks
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
A pinch of sea salt
100ml white wine vinegar
750ml neutral oil
Mixed herbs finely chopped (tarragon, parsley, chervil, dill, chives)
Finely diced gherkins
lemon zest
3 hard-boiled eggs

Method

1. Add the egg yolks, mustard and sea salt to the bowl of an electric mixer with the whisk attachment.

2. On a low speed add the vinegar and leave to whisk for three minutes.

3. Increase the speed and slowly pour the oil into the egg mixture, leaving the mixture to combine sporadically.

4. Once halfway through the oil, pour more steadily and only slow down if the mixture begins to separate.

5. Finish with your favourite fresh herb combination, gherkins, capers and, or, lemon zest – I add them all!

6. For the ultimate tartare sauce pass three hard-boiled eggs through a fine sieve and then stir through your sauce.

@annabelleats

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The Adelaide Review

Heston Blumenthal Interview

Eyebrows were raised at the teaming of one of the world’s most innovative chefs with Coles but Heston Blumenthal explains that his relationship with the giant supermarket chain continues his fascination with the challenge of producing food with a shelf life, as well as native Australian ingredients.

UK celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal turned modern gastronomy on its head with his science-enabled cooking and multi-sensory approach to dining with his iconic first venture The Fat Duck, which was followed by books, television shows and eateries such as Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and The Hinds Head. Although The Observer’s Chef of the Decade is known for popularising molecular gastronomy (a term he doesn’t like as it sounds elitist) through his acclaimed three Michelin-starred restaurant The Fat Duck, Blumenthal has always balanced his exotic creations with accessible meals away from the Duck.

His first book was a family cookbook (Family Food: A New Approach to Cooking) and his early ventures into television, such as In Search of Perfection, showcased classic and nostalgic foods. Then there is his upcoming restaurant, due to open at London’s Heathrow Airport next year, which will be inspired by the work he did for In Search of Perfection.

Blumenthal has a history of working with supermarkets. He worked behind the scenes for Marks & Spencer and has a range of products available at Waitrose in the UK. Last year, Blumenthal’s Christmas range was available exclusively to Coles, and sold out in weeks. The range is back this Christmas. Next year the supermarket will launch Blumenthal products inspired by native ingredients.

“I’m absolutely fascinated at the whole process and the challenges that we, whether it’s a supermarket or a food company, have in producing food that is transportable and has a shelf life, whether it’s frozen or fresh or whether it’s an ambient product,” Blumenthal explains over an Earl Grey tea at Public CBD.

“I also believe that within any price category you have a big variance in quality, so something for 75 pence can still be great. Through the behind the scenes work I did for Marks & Spencer, I started to get more interested in the mechanics. We started working with Waitrose fi ve years ago and we took some of the ideas and techniques that we developed for either The Fat Duck, the other restaurants or for some of the TV shows, and tried to incorporate those into the range that we’re doing in the UK.”

In town as part of his third trip to Australia this year, Blumenthal was a guest of Margaret River’s Gourmet Escape. He’s also in the country to research and discover native ingredients for next year’s range.

“Australia has some of the best produce in the world, the beef is the best in the world and this year we’ve bought more Australian truffles than Perigord ones from France – they’re so good. It’s also the Indigenous stuff – lemon myrtle or whatever – it’s being able to look at those things and then come at it from two angles. It might be a Cornish pasty, a Scotch egg, a pork pie, it might be a sausage, it might be a burger, it might be a food that Britain’s taken into their arms and Australians have done the same – take that and twist it with some Indigenous produce. Also, to take some of the nostalgic foods that you have in Australia, from lamingtons to Tim Tams, and then twisting it.”

The night before this interview, Blumenthal ate at Jock Zonfrillo’s new restaurant Street- ADL. Zonfrillo is known for his foraging and love of Indigenous ingredients. Blumenthal says the Adelaide-based Zonfrillo is a great chef who contains the “kind of knowledge I’m really excited to start learning about”.

“The native Indigenous ingredients will be the initial flagship approach and the idea is that it’s through my eyes. I’m a big kid who is inquisitive. When you see something for the first time, that’s when your mind gets excited and energised. The more you get used to something that’s when the creativity becomes a little bit more difficult – the more you know about a subject. At the beginning, you’re not infl uenced by knowledge you have on that subject, so you’re prepared to try a much wider range of things. So, that’s really important.”

In The Fat Duck Cookbook, Blumenthal wrote that he would one day like to retire in South Africa. It’s also been reported that Australia will host his first restaurant outside of the UK.

“I can’t guarantee it, but I will say it’s more than pretty likely that the next restaurant I’ll open will be in Australia. The South African retirement thing; I’ve got loads of relatives over there, so my dad had a beach house over there, and my sister’s been there for years. That was always planned. But I might be 105! I may be able to retire over there and split my time between there and here. It’s my third time here [Australia] this year. I love it.”

thefatduck.co.uk

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