Current Issue #488

2018 In Review: Restaurants of South Australia

2018 In Review: Restaurants of South Australia

2018 was a year full of new openings and fresh faces in South Australia’s culinary scene, along with inspired changes from a few Adelaide institutions.

In each print edition our food writer Paul Wood visited a different corner of the state to sample the innovative, and delicious, creations being plated up. As the year draws to a close, it’s time to look back at some of the kitchens that captured our imagination over the past 12 months.

Hey Jupiter

“Hey Jupiter was always inspired by France, but was never totally French. A regeneration late last year saw the last of the daily sandwich specials replaced with a menu that is as distinctly Parisian as Hey Jupiter’s stunning fit-out and revamped street frontage.”

Read the full review 

Hey Jupiter
11 Ebenezer Place
heyjupiter.com.au

Lantern By Nu

“It’s been four years since I last came across Nu Suandokmai in the kitchen — working the pans at Gin Long Canteen in North Adelaide. Since then he’s hopped across town to establish a series of new eateries that have each benefited from his diverse culinary expertise. But all of these venues lacked a key ingredient: a place for Nu to call home.”

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Lantern by Nu
10 Selby Street, Adelaide
facebook.com/lanternbynu

Stone’s Throw

“You are able to share the master stock braised beef short rib between three diners. The ingenious use of miso provides a layer of flavour in addition to the master stock base, with a hint of spice courtesy of a thick chilli oil and sweetness from pickled cherries that are at first mistaken for olives swimming in the broth. Roasted and sliced heirloom beetroot, broad beans, torn beet leaves and fresh parsley are piled to hide the succulent and flavoursome rib below.”

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Stone’s Throw
127 The Parade, Norwood
stones-throw.com.au

New Nordic

Having visited Scandinavia many times over the years, I have a strong benchmark set by restaurants throughout the Nordic lands, as well as traditional fare in the homes of Swedish friends, and their mothers. A dish etched in my culinary memory is Agneta’s elk meatballs, simply served with potatoes, brown sauce and lingonberry sauce — with views of deer bounding through snowy Swedish fields, no-less. New Nordic’s version of ‘Mamma’s meatballs’ come exceedingly close.”

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New Nordic
98 Prospect Rd
newnordic.kitchen

The Bridgewater Mill

It must take some effort to maintain a reputation like that of The Bridgewater Mill, and while the water mill itself may only turn on special occasions the restaurant housed inside just keeps on spinning. With food like this, there are plenty more turns ahead.”

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The Bridgewater Mill
386 Mount Barker Road, Bridgewater
thebridgewatermill.com.au

Bistro Blackwood

“From Street ADL to Blackwood and now Bistro Blackwood, Jock Zonfrillo’s casual sister restaurant to Orana has undergone many changes in its five-year existence. As Bistro Blackwood, Paul Wood believes the Rundle St venue finally hits pay dirt as a progressive casual eatery of note.”

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Bistro Blackwood
285 Rundle St
bistroblackwood.com.au

Parwana Afghan Kitchen

“Cooking and service at Parwana is a family affair. Many generations of the Ayubi family are in the kitchen and on the floor. Their tradition and integrity shines through in the food, service and ambiance of the place.”

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Parwana Afghan Kitchen
124B Henley Beach Road, Torrensville
parwana.com.au

Bai Long Store

“The experience takes me back to the days of the Korean Mapo Restaurant not because of its name but the Gouger Street eatery (which closed its doors in 2013) was an early pioneer of quality Asian cuisine in Adelaide. It has been sorely missed until recent additions to our culinary scene brought back the same level of taste and talent. Bai Long may be housed in a ground floor tenancy of a commercial television building, but what they lack in location they make up for in flavour, style and flair.”

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Bai Long Store
80 Hutt Street
bailong.store

Acacia

“In this relatively compact but well-designed space, Acacia pulls off restaurant quality food and service with customers spilling out onto the pavement for daily breakfast. It offers a more refined lunch and weekend dinner menu inspired by the seasons and features plenty of locally-sourced seafood infused with native flavours and ingredients.”

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Acacia
3/269 Seaview Rd
Henley Beach, South Australia, 5022
acacia.place

Hahn & Hamlin

“Hahndorf is an evolving tourist destination that has had its ups and downs over the years, particularly when it comes to food offerings heavily influenced by its historic German roots. Now, this buzzing Adelaide Hills village has advanced beyond sausage and schnitzels to offer visitors something a little more refined and a lot more local.”

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Hahn & Hamlin
79 Mount Barker Road (also known as Main Street), Hahndorf
hahnandhamlin.com.au

Reviews: Paul Wood
Photography: Sia Duff

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