Wine Review: Brackenwood’s Gamay-Pinot Noir

The new year is well and truly upon us and if 2018 will be the year of interesting blends, this Gamay-Pinot Noir from Brackenwood Vineyard goes to the top of the list, says Dave Brookes.

brackenwood-gamay-pinot-noir-wine-adelaide-reviewIt’s around this time of year that wine experts roll out the annual, ‘What to expect in wine in 2018’ lists. Of course we have waited all last year for these things, fidgeting, perhaps worrying that we don’t have the correct wines in our wine fridges. No, you are right. We don’t do that.

That’s because those lists are usually complete bollocks. BUT, if one of those breathless wine scribes was to say 2018 was the year in which we’ll see more interesting blends, I would fist-bump them without a moment’s hesitation.

Here’s one such blend. Brackenwood is nestled away in the Hope Forest in the Adelaide Hills sub-region of Kuitpo. All the fruit is estate grown and farmed according to biodynamic principles, lying around 400m above sea level on soils rich in ironstone and quartz over clay.

Gamay and Pinot Noir have an affinity for each other, you know. They grew up together in the French region of Burgundy in the old days,so it kinda makes sense.

So what’s it like? Light in colour; I spy some whole-bunchy characters on the nose, those Campari-esque, Amaro herbal aromatics that make these styles so appealing. Brambley cherry and redcurrant fruit aromas lead the way with hints of freshly cut flowers, Asian spice, cherry clafoutis, forest floor and light gamey tones.

Light, airy and just deliciously assembled in the mouth, it walks that knife-edge of bitter and sweet. A lovely fruit weight and a bright demeanor add up to good drinkin’. Another red that will take a light chill for consumption during the warmer months.

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