Gary Farr and his son Nick make a formidable winemaking team, producing wonderful wines from their vineyards in the Moorabool Valley between Geelong and Ballarat.
Gary steers the By Farr wines and Nick the Farr Rising lines, and, to be honest, any wine from their stable is worth seeking out.
This particular Chardonnay hails from vines planted in 1994 on red soil over limestone. Handpicked and wholebunch pressed with a wild-ferment on solids in barrel before racking with fining and a light filtration before heading to bottle, this is a perfect illustration of the careful journey from land to bottle.
The first thing that strikes me about this wine is its elegance. A sense of latent power simmers beneath the surface. It displays great detail and clarity with pure stone and citrus fruit aromas and flavours underscored with hints of nougat, almond paste, lemongrass, white flowers and beautifully-poised French oak spice notes.
It shows some textural sinew on the palate but its form is all about precision and drive as the wine trails off, showing hints of white peach, grapefruit, clotted cream, vanilla and more French oak spice.
A bottle of this with a roast chicken and you are in a happy place.
BY FARR 2016 Chardonnay