Wine Review: Deviation Road’s ‘inviting aromatic’ Vintage Brut

This column recently discussed the very wise adage of always having a bottle of sparkling wine/Champagne in the fridge should unexpected guests pop around or you just need a bit of a pick-me-up. It’s sound advice that has stood the test of time.

There are some lovely wines coming out of Kate and Hamish Laurie’s Deviation Road winery in the Adelaide Hills. The sparkling wines in particular are beauties, no doubt due to Kate spending much time in Champagne and studying at the region’s Lycée Viticole d’Avize.

The 2015 is 60 per cent Pinot Noir, 40 per cent Chardonnay sourced from up around 550m in Lenswood and Picadilly. Aged for 24 months on its yeast lees in a cool dark cellar, it is here that the spent yeast weaves its magic, over time imparting complexing characters to the wine; all that nutty, creamy, brioche-like grouseness that we love from this wine style.

Mid-straw in colour with a fine, energetic bead, the wine shows an inviting aromatic profile conjuring up images of apple pastries and citrus flans along with hints of soft spice, roasting nuts, lemon curd, creme brulée and lighter flicks of marzipan and warm brioche.

The palate is quite expansive after a focussed entrance, gently swelling and showing pure fruit flavours of apple and citrus fruits with hints of apple Danish, light spice and grilled nuts. It finishes long and dry with a complex flurry of apples, gentle spice and toasted pastries, the crisp acidity propelling it along beautifully. Try it with grilled seafood.

DEVIATION ROAD 2015 Loftia Vintage Brut

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