Wine Review: Rob Dolan’s Spicy, Sultry and Smoky Pinot Noir

Here’s another grape variety that always strikes an autumnal chord with me, perhaps for its forest–floor, gamey notes. Regardless, Pinot Noir during the cooler months just seems to be the right path forward and I am a stickler for both subjective seasonal/vinous associations and drinking enough Pinot Noir as humanly possible.

rob-dolan-2015-pinot-noir-yarra-valley-adelaide-review Rob Dolan has 20 years of Yarra Valley winemaking experience under his belt, making wine at Yarra Ridge through the 90s then managing the Mildara Blass Victorian winemaking team before purchasing the former Hardys Yarra Burn winery in 2011 and launching his eponymous range of wines. The 2015 Yarra Valley vintage is a beauty. Bruised purple/red in the glass with a nose of smoky, spicy macerated dark cherry fruits, dark plum and higher–toned cranberry notes. Hints of Peking duck, mushroom broth, Asian spice, raspberry coulis, hoisin and sultry oak wafts complete the aromatic canvas. The wine displays a lovely spacious feel on the palate with plenty of light shining on the ripe cherry and dark berry fruits on display. Hints of Asian BBQ, macerated summer berry fruits and gentle light, smoky oak. It’s definitely at the lighter end of medium–bodied and is calm and composed for one so young. The ripe, spice–laden fruit hangs perfectly off a scaffold of bright, ripe acidity and the tannins; quite gentle like super–fine sand, seem to meld into the background of the wine with the gentlest of tugs on the palate. The finish lingers nicely with a vapor trail of ripe and spiced cherry fruits. 2015 Yarra Valley Pinot Noir RRP $35 robdolanwines.com.au

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