Current Issue #488

Wine Review: Bremerton Wines' "Crunchy" Lagrein

If you are searching for a medium-bodied, crunchy red wine that is ablaze with ripe fruit and registers high on the drinkability meter, look no further; this delicious Lagrein from Bremerton in Langhorne Creek is your girl.

bremerton-lagrein-wine-adelaide-review-2The grape variety originally hails from Italy’s Alto Adige region, though its parentage is cloudy. It could be a natural cross of Teroldego, a sibling of Marzemino, a grandchild of Pinot or a cousin of Syrah. Science is funny like that; sometimes the more we dig the less we know. But all we really need to know is it is decidedly yummy to drink and seems well suited to the climes of South Australia.

The colour is ridiculous. A deep vibrant purple threatening to stain your stemware if you don’t drain the glass pronto. There are aromas of über– ripe plums, wild cherry and kirsch underscored with hints of spice, freshly cut fennel, ‘Old Jamaican’ chocolate, licorice, violets and vanillin oak with notes of polished leather and light amaro herbs flittering further in the background.

For a wine that sees 24 months of barrel ageing in a mix of old and new vessels, the opulent fruit has sure slurped up that oak, which plays a background/support role.

The palate again shows super ripe plum and cherry fruits with plenty of crunch and vibrancy as it skips across the tongue. It’s densely packed with spice, herbs, licorice and purple floral notes yet seems light on its feet, with a sprightly line of acidity and no shortage of sandy tannin providing support and tension.

I reckon this would pretty much be the perfect pasta/pizza wine to enjoy with friends over the warmer months and it is a wine that provides plenty of enjoyment for the price.


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