Current Issue #488

Windy Point Restaurant Review

Windy Point Restaurant Review

Windy Point has been a special occasion destination for more than three decades but does it still deserve its lofty reputation?

With a vista like no other in Adelaide, Windy Point is a favourite among locals and visitors, offering a panorama from the hills to the sea.

With this million-dollar view, Windy Point is a stalwart for celebratory fine-dining experiences (as we finish starters, a man is down on one knee, asking for his partner’s hand in marriage).

As we take in the view, house-made olive bread is served with lashings of Hindmarsh Valley demi-sel cultured butter. A rosemary-infused custard makes the perfect naughty dipping sauce for Korean-fried broccoli, served with chilli sauce.

Carpaccio is Huon Ocean Trout, plated artistically with stripes of squid ink aioli. Punches of crushed citrus crisp add punch and texture, yet the dish simply melts in the mouth. Fish of the day is Barramundi, direct from the rivers of the Northern Territory.

Served only a small portion, this dense fillet is nicely caramelised and comes with oxtail, dried cherries and a luscious parsnip and cauliflower puree. A square of caramel pork belly is seared sous vide and is tender and balanced through the addition of mint, broad bean and za’atar.

Fresh Buffalo Mozzarella is a delicate pillow of cheesy pleasure.

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Our next dish, according to the menu, is a lacquered and confit duck leg. While unsure of what the “lacquered” part is exactly, I know for sure that this is one of the most sensuous duck dishes I have tasted. A duck and pumpkin filo is mildly sweet and crunchy. Perfectly cooked confit leg is juicy and falls off the bone. A kohlrahbi remoulade is crisp and creamy. Together: magic.

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Although bursting at the seams, we soldier on. They’d forgotten to tell us that the degustation is a challenge as much as it is an experience, so I am telling you – prepare yourself. Fast. Diet. Anything that stops you from eating for at least an hour (or a week) before tackling Windy Point’s degustation.

Wagyu barbecue rib sits on a velvety carrot sauce with a delicate cumin flavour, grapefruit segments and charred broccoli brightens the dish and a lonely, delicate scallop is lightly seared, barely touching the caramelised scale and still rare in the centre. Dessert is a three-step process.

First, the tart sorbet, highlighting lemony-lime and all things citrus; then, a solitary chocolate sitting on a brandy snap crumb featuring a hazelnut centre; finally, an imported Pedro Ximenez, which is silky and smashing with sweetness and punch. This Spanish favourite is the ultimate end to an ultimate dining experience.

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Even after all these years Windy Point maintains its place as a culinary institution. Above all it’s a place for memories, and if you want to celebrate a memorable experience, why not do it with one of the best views in town?

And happily for the nervous boy down on one knee, she said yes, even with a restaurant full of diners looking on.

Windy Point Restaurant

Belair Road, Belair
Monday to Saturday from 6pm
8278 8255
windypoint.com.au

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